The Ship Inn, Highley

finds everything is just right at a riverside pub which has undergone a huge revamp.

Many will remember the Ship at Highley as a friendly but rather rundown riverside pub that had seen significantly better days.

Well look at it now. It's undergone a comprehensive refit and been relaunched as a extended and refurbished classy restaurant yet retaining its relaxed and welcoming atmosphere.

In some ways it's still a village pub where locals can call in for a relaxing pint, tourists and trippers can get light meals and fishermen can change in the soon-to-be-opened lockeroom and tell tales about their catches over refreshments.

The Ship also offers quality dining in the refined atmosphere of the Jolly Roger and Fisherman's Plaice restaurants complete with navigation equipment, anchor, lifebelt and painting of a pirate ship . . . for a predictable nautical theme.

But it is the chefs who landlady Katrina Flintoff has brought in to help create the superb sounding meals such as butterflied cajun chicken breast and venison steak au porto. The head chef is Dean Purdy who is obviously adept at preparation, cooking and presentation.

There are more than 20 main meals available, with most of then costing £8 but ranging up to £18 for a gargantuan, 16 ounce rump steak. The Ship has, for as long as I can remember, catered for its passing trade, be that on road, rail or river. If you haven't much time, there are the quick, light meals, baguettes, jacket potatoes, wraps etc.

Whether this all embracing menu stretches as far back as 1770 when it first opened is difficult to establish but what is certain is that its dramatic new look will carry it forward with confidence.

There has been a huge investment at the Ship and I would recommend anyone to make the effort to follow the beaten track (known locally I believe as Smoke Alley) to enjoy its stunning location.

We arrived on a Thursday evening to find it busy both inside and out on the expansive decking area.

Stacey greeted us and after drinks in the lounge we went into one of the swish restaurant areas and checked out the chef's specials on the chalkboard as well as the printed menu.

I fancied sea bass fishcake with ginger and lime (£6) while Libby succumbed to a childhood penchant for black pudding (£6), both from the specials board. My fishcake was a whale of a size, well, quite big anyway. The ginger and lime was just a little underwhelming, perhaps understandably so because fresh bass is not that strong. The salad accompaniment was fresh and crisp.

Libby's black pudding, however packed a real punch.

It was served with Stilton and field mushrooms and was most enjoyable. Libby said the mushrooms were almost unnecessary such was the flavour of the cheese-laced black pudding.

Friendly and attentive staff (both called Stacey) saw to our needs, brought the wine and then the mains - mine the hare and rabbit casserole (£10) and Libby a half duck (£15). Mine was a substantial bowl of tender and flavoursome meat, lots of excellent chips and a separate bowl of carrots, cauliflower, baby sweetcorn, broccoli and courgettes.

There was more than enough, but it was all excellently cooked and I admit I over-indulged.

Libby is more strong-willed however and knew when to stop (I noticed there was precious little left of the deliciously flavoured duck, however).

Everything at the Ship is, well, ship-shape and the food, service and surroundings cannot be faulted. We didn't need to try the desserts but sneakily they are displayed in a brightly lit cabinet (and after a fellow diner sang the praises of the Manchester tart) I had to sample some. A crumbly pastry base, sumptuous cream and custard layer toped off with grated coconut (£4.50), it was brilliant. Libby's chocolate indulgence (lots of chocolate, cream and profiteroles, £4.50) was high on sweetness, too high for Libby's unsweet tooth, so I finished it.

It was then coffees and that pleasant, post meal relaxation, even the arrival of the bill is painless when you know that eventually some one else will be paying. For the record it came to £58.15.

Trying to find fault was difficult - I could only point to the lack of floodlighting on the (uneven) car park, but this was not enough to deduct a star from the five star quality of an evening out at the Ship.

We'll be back, probably to sample their Sunday carvery at £8 a head.

ADDRESS

The Ship Inn, Severnside, Highley, WV16 6NU

Tel: 01746 861219

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Barbecue ribs of pork (£5); smoked mackerel and horseradish pate (£5); home-made soup of the day (£4)

MAIN COURSES

Liver, bacon and onion casserole, slowly cooked (£8); butterflied cajun chicken breast with spicy salsa (£10)

DESSERTS

White chocolate and raspberry bombe (£4.50); lemon and ginger cheesecake (£4.50)

ATMOSPHERE

Bright, buzzing and sociable, lots going on, but quiet corners can be found

SERVICE

Very friendly and efficient

DISABLED FACILITIES

Full toilet provision for the disabled, and plenty of room for wheelchairs