Fishmore Hall, Ludlow

I've long been puzzled by the low profile of one of Shropshire's finest chefs. Dave Jaram, head chef at Fishmore Hall, in Ludlow, rates barely a mention when awards are conferred, TV talent spotters come a-callin' or when chefs are lined up to demonstrate at the county's food festivals.

He's the invisible man, it seems. He's a chef who stays in his kitchen, who barely ventures out.

It's a curious state of affairs given Jaram's obvious talent. The capable head chef has a passion for dishes that feature the very best of local, seasonal produce and has been dazzling Fishmore Hall guests for some years.

He came to the venue with an impressive pedigree, having worked at the acclaimed Close Hotel, in Tetbury, under head chef Daren Bale and then at Newbury Manor under head chef Simon McKenzie.

He acquired further experience in Cheshire, where he joined the team at the acclaimed Nunsmere Hall under Nigel Goodwin, and sous chef Marc Hardiman, before making further stops at The Haycock in Wansford and The Greenway in Cheltenham.

As CVs go, Jaram's ain't bad.

But it's his work at Fishmore Hall that has helped him to earn an enviable reputation. He has developed impressive contacts with local suppliers, whose food and drink he showcases on ever-changing menus that reflect the best of seasonal, abundant produce.

And yet. And yet. Jaram seems to barely register when newspaper articles are written or when local chefs are called upon to demonstrate the county's exceptional food. Maybe he's a quiet fella, maybe he avoids the limelight for the security of his kitchen or maybe it's down to bad PR – for us newspaper boys and girls are seldom encouraged to write about him. Whatever the reason, Jaram is a chef that too few people have heard of. So let's try and put that right.

Jaram's classy food is at the heart of Fishmore Hall. Yes, there are stunning views across surrounding countryside, yes the service is of a high standard and features a surprisingly cohesive young team and yes the provenance of Jaram's ingredients is first class. But the reason for the venue's excellence is clear to see: it has a really good chef.

I've eaten at Fishmore Hall on too few occasions. In recent years, there have been times when it has dazzled, when it's been a shoo-in for my Top Five restaurants in the county. Innovative flavours, contrasting textures, stunning presentation and perfectly matched ingredients have been incredibly impressive.

My friend and I paid our most recent visit to enjoy a midweek dinner and there was much to enjoy.

We arrived early, just after 7pm, and there was only one other couple there. They were celebrating an elevation to being chair of some such board and were perusing an impressive wine list. After entering the venue, we were shown to deep, comfortable sofas, where we relaxed with pre-dinner drinks.

The menus were impressive. They featured the best seasonal flavours of Shropshire: a saddle of rabbit, a loin of spring lamb, venison from nearby woods and deliciously gamey pigeon, among others.

We were greeted warmly by a youthful maitrê d', who proved herself a star act throughout our evening.

Our canapés arrived: a sunblush tomato hummus with crispy bread slices and two beignets of goat's cheese mousse with chive. The hummus was delicious: satisfying and piquant, it was scooped up and dispatched before we could say: 'Dave Jaram ought to be more widely known, you know, because he's really rather good'. The beignets were less impressive. Beyond their crunchy, breaded outer layer was a too-salty goat's cheese filling.

We were then shown in to the dining room where we enjoyed a small cup of cauliflower veloute with a truffle oil. It was pretty good, without being exceptional. The flavours of the cauliflower were a little too abrupt; they were overly pronounced, though the delightfully earthy truffle oil was a perfect compliment.

My friend had to be careful about what to choose from the menu, given that she was midway through a pregnancy. Happily, Fishmore Hall's thoughtful staff made sure there were no demons on her plate: they were attentive throughout our dinner.

She started with a chicken mousse that was served with cubes of salt-baked beetroot, an asparagus mousse, tiny cubes of cooked lemon and micro herbs. It was delightful. The subtle, grassy asparagus mousse provided a sweet, seasonal accompaniment to the deliciously tender and moist chicken while the sharp, citrusy lemon cut through its natural richness. The micro herbs seemed to be present for garnish, rather than to add flavour. It looked as pretty as a picture and she enjoyed it enormously.

I opted for a pigeon starter, which was served with a wild mushroom risotto. It was presented with great skill, the fillet of the pigeon's breast being cut into thin slices and laid over the unctuous risotto. The flavours were superb.

My main course was an exploration of all things pork. Tiny rounds of fillet were wrapped in bacon, pan-fried and then slow-cooked. They were tender and delicious. A slither of pork belly had been cooked with skill, so that the fat rendered through the meat and gave it a lustrous texture and extravagant flavour. A small, crunchily-coated potato croquette added contrast while tiny balls of apple and swishes of vegetable puree added to the dish. It was delightful. Presented on a vast plate, almost as large as a football pitch, each component had been neatly arranged. It was as though Jaram was playing some sort of Chef Jenga and we had to work out a magic code.

My friend's main dish was also good. A large piece of cod sat on a bed of linguine with saffron sauce. She had asked the waitresses to omit a mussel component, which they readily did. The cod had been cooked with finesse.

We enjoyed a brief break before our desserts, which were a little underwhelming. My friend had chosen the bread and butter soufflé, with tonka bean ice cream, while I had opted for an exploration of caramel, comprising a mousse, sauce and gel, paired with almond ice cream and a delightful biscotti.

Just before my friend's soufflé had been due to arrive, the waitress returned. "We don't think we ought to serve it," they said. "The egg will still be a little moist and perhaps you ought not eat it." She was grateful for their consideration and thoughtfulness and opted for a plate of homemade ice creams instead.

My caramel dessert was presented with aplomb but was a little lacking in contrast. The almond biscotti was the highlight, though the mousse was not packed with flavour.

Fishmore Hall isn't cheap. Our three course a la carte menu came in at £50 per head, a far higher price that one might expect to pay at comparable venues. Jaram's cooking and a highly-polished brigade make that almost worthwhile. Far better value is Jaram's six-course tasting menu, at £59. However, the prices are still high, given that nine-courses at the Michelin-starred Mr Underhill's is £65.

Service was efficient and relaxed. Waitresses were polite and attentive throughout, asking whether we'd enjoyed our dinners and making regular visits to our table to pour drinks. They were classy performers.

The views form the dining room were also exquisite. A purpose-built conservatory-style venue sits slap bang in the middle of verdant, rolling countryside. Throughout our dinner we enjoyed wonderful views as the sun slowly sank and the colours changed. We seemed to enjoy a thousand variations of the same view; with blues, gold, green and similar colours honing into view.

Jaram's cooking was exquisite though, in truth, it did not match the same standards as Ludlow's – and Shropshire's – two best restaurants: the nearby Mr Underhill's and Will Holland's La Becasse. Both offer greater flavour, more original flavour combinations and presentation that is of a higher standard. And, crucially, both offer better value.

No matter, Jaram remains in the upper echelons on the local dining scene. A smooth operator capable of technical excellence and impressive presentation.

ADDRESS

Fishmore Hall, Fishmore Road, Ludlow SY8 3DP

Tel: 01584 875148

Web: http://www.fishmorehall.co.uk