Boat Inn, Gnosall
Star rating: **** Carl Jones enjoys a hearty meal which floats his boat
When we walked into The Boat Inn, two ruddy-faced locals were lovingly nursing their pints at the bar, and a friendly middle-aged couple were polishing off the remnants of lunch at a table in the corner.
But there was no sign of anyone behind the counter. "I hope they come out soon – we don't want you giving up and going down the Navvy instead!" one of the drinkers joked as our wait extended to around three minutes.
He was referring to the Navigation Inn, Gnosall's other waterside hostelry which sits just a few hundred yards down the Shropshire Union Canal towpath.
We were glad we stayed. Three friendly faces soon emerged from the pub's inner sanctum to attend to our every need in cheerful style, as the place bustled into life. Surprisingly so, in fact, for a Thursday lunchtime.
The Navigation may be the better known of Gnosall's two canal pubs, sitting as it does on the main commuter route between Telford and Stafford, but the Boat is a gem of a community meeting place tucked away in the heart of the village. A slice of real, honest, old fashioned rural life.
As it happened, those initial three minutes had given us just enough time to assess both the main menu, and the varied and interesting daily specials board.
Had we wanted a starter, the £3.95 choices included paté with toast, soup of the day and prawn cocktail, while £7.95 main courses range from lasagne with garlic bread, lamb's liver on mash with a red wine onion gravy, or pie of the day smothered in real gravy. The pie was proving particularly popular among hungry locals as the pub filled up, and when we saw the size of the portions, we understood why.
The Boat also does £5.95 "big bowls" - a sort of porcelain version of the old favourite chicken-in-a-basket - with choices ranging from scampi and chips, to sausage chips and beans, cajun chicken salad, prawn and smoked mackerel salad, curry, or chilli.
It was the bowl of scampi which tempted my wife Rachel, and she wasn't disappointed, being swiftly served with a healthy portion of crispy fish, piping hot chips, and a salad of tomato, coleslaw, cucumber and peppers.
For the money, great value. The menu was right; the bowl certainly wasn't small!
My eye had been drawn to the specials board, which featured an eclectic mix of main courses such as Moroccan chicken with sultanas and cashews (£8.25), Welshpool faggots on mash, with gravy (£6.95), or an honest English 8oz sirloin with mushrooms and onion rings (£10.95).
I opted, however, for the 6oz home-made beefburger (£6.95), a tower of a sight topped with egg, bacon and pineapple, and served with chips, the same salad, and a large thimble of feisty barbecue sauce.
At first, I wasn't sure the pineapple belonged at the party, but it did. The burger tasted fabulous – not nearly as greasy as it sounds – and although one side of the burger was a mite more charred than grilled, I didn't really have any complaints.
According to a magazine article displayed on the pub's wall, the Boat Inn is haunted by the ghost of a mysterious lady, who appears occasionally to meddle with glasses behind the bar.
That's no real surprise. It's certainly the sort of building which gives the impression of having many secrets hidden in its vaults, but having seen a couple of hearty puddings emerging from the kitchens the only thing haunting us was the prospect of ordering dessert, and then finding ourselves unable to clear the plate.
We were half right. I managed to polish off every penny of the £3.95 worth of chocolate fudge cake and cream, but Rachel waved the white flag, somewhat reluctantly, just over three quarters of the way through a chunky lemon meringue pie which she declared delicious.
I'd ordered cream with my pud, while Rachel had asked for ice-cream. They actually came the wrong way round, but it was rectified with minimum fuss, maximum apology, and a smile.
The Boat is a proper "local" with a real family atmosphere. One table in the corner was set for a single diner – "that's Reg's table" we were informed – and gives local traders the chance to display their business cards. The landlord's not averse to running a slate either – one guy apologetically appeared during our visit saying he'd forgotten his cash but wanted to eat, and was told: "No problem, bring the money in later".
To the Shropshire Star reader who recommended The Boat for top value, wholesome home-cooked food, thank you. Three and a half stars for lunch, and an extra half to reward the pub's character, homely atmosphere, and friendly service.
No wonder that ghost can't bring herself to leave.
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Paté with toast (£3.95)
Soup of the day (£3.95)
Main courses
Choice of seven "Big Bowls" (£5.95)
Pie of the day with real gravy (£7.25)
Desserts
Apple and banana crumble (£3.95)
Chocolate fudge cake (£3.95)
ATMOSPHERE
Traditional homely rural pub full of personality and colourful characters
SERVICE
Swift, friendly and efficient (apart from the first three minutes, and the minor hiccup with our desserts).
DISABLED FACILITIES
Several steps down to canalside
Contact
The Boat Inn, Wharf Road, Gnosall. Telephone: 01785 822208
