Cambridge, Eastern England - travel review
Traffic, trains and towers of grey concrete – all symbols of the soul-crushing daily grind we endure each day in modern suburbia.
Imagine escaping this urban misery to a place where travel usually involves a bike, congestion is an out-of-control tourist in a punt and everywhere you look is an architectural triumph, oozing hundreds of years history.
ICould there be such a Utopia of tranquillity? There is indeed – and only a couple of hours drive from the Midlands – Cambridge.
With only the boat race and University Challenge as a point of reference prior to visiting, my preconceptions of Cambridge conjured up images of Hooray Henrys lining the riverbanks quaffing bubbly at pricey bars.
These misconceptions were quickly dispelled as we explored this wonderful city which actually has something for everyone – regardless of age, background or budget.
Whether it be soaking up the sun alongside the river, discovering some of its fascinating history, shopping at a range of top stores or enjoying a varied dining experience – Cambridge has the lot.
Our little retreat was enhanced by our accommodation – at the indulgently relaxing and stunningly stylish Hotel Felix.
The hotel enjoys a picturesque spot just over a mile outside Cambridge – a 25-minute pleasant walk. Many people opt to cycle into the city centre of course and there is an abundance of cycle lanes providing safer biking. The hotel can offer discounted bike hire.
The hotel is a five-minute drive from the city but beware, some of the town centre car parks charge £25 for stays over five hours.
We quite enjoyed the leisurely stroll along the flat, straight road - when we could tear ourselves away from the hotel that is.
The four-star boutique hotel is formed from a Victorian villa overlooking a garden terrace and spacious, landscaped gardens. It is the perfect setting for al fresco dining or a cold drink watching the sun go down.
It does have a contemporary feel, however, and a unique selling point for this hotel has to be the award-winning Graffiti Restaurant. The vibrant, striking décor in the restaurant is quite hypnotic and the impressive artworks command attention.
And if the décor wasn’t incredible enough – the food is amazing. The hotel boasts of a reputation for serving seasonally-inspired modern British food with an Italian influence.
For example, I enjoyed a starter of Zucchini risotto, mint, marjoram and Vermouth while my partner had salad of handpicked Devon white crab with grilled and pickled cucumbers, crème fraiche, cucamelons, rainbow radishes and toasted seed. Our main courses were roast saddle of venison, kohlrabi, beets, rainbow chard, blackcurrents and sumac at £21 and chargrilled sirloin with potato and pancetta alforno, spinach, mushrooms and salsa verde at £18.50.
It is worth commenting on how warm and attentive the restaurant and all hotel staff were. There seemed to be genuine interest in your stay and ensuring it was a happy one.
There are 52 rooms from standard to the lavish junior suites - you have not lived until you have enjoyed a bath with built-in TV!
Cambridge itself is, of course, seeped in history and most famous for the university. If you fancy a tour of the colleges you need only catch the eye of one of the many tour operators waving clipboards around.
But if you choose to see only one it should be King’s College and chapel. King Henry VI laid the foundation stone of the college in 1441, founding both this and Eton College.
Demanding the building be without equal in grandeur, he drew up detailed plans but his murder in the Tower of London in 1471 meant the completion of the college fell to subsequent kings, with the magnificent chapel the product of three periods of construction. The ambitious fan vault ceiling is the largest of its kind in the world and quite breath-taking.
Whichever college you visit be warned – grass is sacred, only senior members of the colleges and their guests may walk on the grass.
A charming way to see the universities is by punt down the ‘Backs’. During our stay Hotel Felix was offering all guests a free tour with Scudamores Punts, one of the larger companies.
Their tours cover a one-mile section of the River Cam known as the College Backs giving a riverside view of some of Cambridge’s finest buildings including King’s College, the Bridge of Sighs, and the [Sir Christopher] Wren Library.
Our knowledgeable 'chauffeur' George shared some interesting facts about the history of the buildings, some of the student pranks and expertly negotiated both the self-drive tourists and very low bridges.
Another interesting visit – and free entry to boot – is the Fitzwilliam Museum. Three floors of history in more than 30 rooms, there is some half a million artefacts and artworks from across the world including some creepy Egyptian mummy coffins and masterpieces from leading artists such as Monet and Renoir.
Shopping includes all of the main chains particularly in the Grand Arcade shopping centre or around the Petty Cury area where there are small independents offering unusual wares. The market square also hosts delightful eclectic stalls.
Even Cambridge’s buskers are quirky – including a guitarist in a bin singing Always Look on the Bright Side of Life!
Cambridge truly is an escape from the daily grind – so if you are looking for a breath of fresh area I would definitely take a punt on Cambridge
Panel:
Hotel Felix website www.hotelfelix.co.uk
Rates based on two people sharing: King: £230 inclusive of full English breakfast; Premier: £285 inclusive of full English breakfast; Junior Suite: £325 inclusive of full English breakfast; Penthouse: £345 inclusive of full English breakfast
To book call 01223 277977 or book via our website.
Hotel Felix can also be found in the Signpost guide. Signpost has been recommending the UK's top privately owned hotels since 1935. All Signpost members are visited every year, to make sure top standards are maintained. Most are near areas of outstanding beauty with plenty to do or see in the area; many are hidden gems, all have award winning cuisine. For more details and to receive news about great hotel offers visit www.signpost.co.uk.
Kings College: www.kings.cam.ac.uk Admission £9 adults.
Scudamores Punts: www.scudamores.com; ring 01223 359750