Food Review: Rich flavour of India’s regions at Vhujon, Bewdley
Fancy a curry? Good. And so do we. Because what is life without the occasional trip to the local Bangladeshi or Indian restaurant to enjoy authentic dishes that are full of spice?
The contribution made to the region’s gastronomic scene by Indian and Bangladeshi chefs, waiters and restaurateurs cannot be overstated. It feels as though residents in Shropshire, the Black Country, Birmingham and beyond grew up on a staple diet of curry.
Those who ran and worked in such restaurants habitually received a raw deal. Working against a backdrop of insavoury – nah, let’s say it how it was – frequently racist treatment, particularly from late-night weekend revellers, earned low wages and worked long hours.
There was little warmth or gratitude for the services that people provided – and some patrons literally fell asleep in their curry.
Times have changed, happily, and there’s now a far greater recognition of the cultural, economic, and gastronomic contribution made to the region.
Awards ceremonies provide the opportunity for owners and chefs to earn the accolades they so richly deserve.
There are strong links between restaurants and the communities they serve, with a number providing sponsorship or support to a range of charitable initiatives.
The pathway that provides gainful employment for those who want to learn about the flavours of South Asia is well-trodden. People whose life chances might otherwise be limited are able to express themselves, work hard, undertake entrepreneurial activity and make headway.
Across Shropshire and its hinterland, every town and a number of villages have a decent Indian or Bangladeshi restaurant.
And while there’s a significant variation in the quality of those, we ought to start this week’s review by paying homage to the exceptional, hard-working, creative and talented chefs, restaurateurs, and front-of-house staff who’ve provided the region with six decades of delicious eating.
The pioneering generation that paved the way for today’s restaurants had a tough time of it, but their spirit, determination and unbridled skill helped to form the restaurant scene that we know today.
Vhujon Restaurant, in Bewdley, is one of dozens of neighbourhood restaurants in the region that serves such dishes as biryani, balti, tandoori and more.
It’s owners, Asman and Razu, named their restaurant with a word derived from the ancient civilised languar of India-Sanskrit, which means gourmet dinner, and is commonly used in many India languages.
India is a vast country with great variations in climate and terrain and each region boasts its own special style and flavour of cooking, reflecting the terroir.
In Kashmir, for instance, which lies to the north, dishes tend to be mild and saffron frequently features.
In Uttar Pradesh, which includes the foothills of the Himalayas, foods are simpler with subtle, delicate tastes.
In Delish and Haryana, diners can expect food made in an exotic Mogul style, with dishes that are rich and creamy.
To the south of India, in Tamily Nadu, the same dishes would be prepared in a fashion that’s more spicy and aromatic, because so many spices are grown in the area.
Vhujon seeks to bring together dishes from across India, providing a flavour of one of the world’s largest countries, and embodying the rich, diverse tastes that are on offer.
We sought a sample of that, starting with a dish of prawn pathia on puri. A medium hot, sweet and sour dish, with small, plump prawns, a tomato-based sauce was served on a wheatmeal bread, which had been deep fried until puffed.
The spicy tomato masala sauce was rich in flavour and made the mouth water, while the decadent bread was more-ish and enhanced by a squeeze of lemon juice that had been drizzled over the top.
My starter of chicken shashlik was similarly appetising. Large chunks of tender chicken tikka were laid on a bed of Indian spiced onion and peppers. Essentially, a posh kebab, it was a filling dish in which the chef’s skills shone through as the marinade and scorched flavours came to the fore.
Our mains were pretty good, though it would be gilding the lily to suggest they dazzled.
Murgh Makhani was a dish of butter chicken, that originates from Delhi. The curry originated in Old Delhi in the 1950s, following the Partition of India, after a leftover tandoori chicken was accidentally mixed into a rich tomato gravy, loaded with butter. The recipe became popular and by the mid-1970s it had been exported to the large number of Indian restaurants that had sprouted up around the UK.
The Vhujon version was pleasant, though a tad underwhelming and underseasoned. While the chicken had been cooked well, the sauce lacked impact and failed to dazzle.
A gust char chari, which originates from Bangladesh, was more impressive. Marinated lamb had been delicately spiced and stir-fried with onions, capsicum, tomatoes, chillies and sliced beans. It was pleasingly fresh with the lamb perfectly tender and the spices deliciously balanced.
We ordered a tandoori roti to go with our mains, which was delightful. Light and serving as the perfect vessel to mop up sauce, it made for happy eating. A side of pilau rice, in contrast, was not so delightful. Over-cooked, it conspired to undo some of the good work from earlier dishes.
As we navigate our way through the cost of living crisis, neighbourhood restaurants that have been the backbone of the local dining scene for generations need our support.
They are facing an uphill climb as we have less money to spend on luxuries and as they face higher overheads.
It’s a sector that’s thrived for many years in this region and there are considerable delights in towns and villages throughout the county.
