The grafters of gastronomy: Andy Richardson rounds up the best restaurants in the region

It would be nice to paint a picture of vintage gastronomy – and we mean vintage as in ‘high quality’, not ‘old’ – but we can’t. Because that’s not what 2019 brought.

Life isn’t all about growth, growth, growth. We’ll leave it to the politicians to tell people things are continually getting bigger and better. Instead, we’ll opt for a credible narrative that’s built on truth, rather than hyperbole.

Because for Staffordshire, Shropshire and the Black Country, the past 12 months has been a time of consolidation and getting on with it, rather than reaching for the stars.

Yes, a Michelin star was awarded to the exceptional Pensons, near Tenbury Wells, just over the Shropshire border. The brilliant Lee Westcott deserved that accolade for a remarkable menu that was rooted in local, seasonal produce.

But no sooner had he won it than he decided to leave. Westcott had proved a point in sleepy old Tenbury Wells and opted for a return to his native London. We wish him well. We were blessed to enjoy his starry talents for a while, at least.

At least we still have Liam. Chef Liam Dillon has been one of the high points on this region’s culinary scene during the past 12 months. Having firmly established The Boat Inn, near Lichfield, by securing two AA rosettes, a listing in the Michelin Guide and a place in the UK’s Top 50 Gastropubs list, Dillon’s star is rising.

Dillon formerly worked for the likes of Marcus Wareing and Tom Sellers before opening his own place. He has worked around the world, taking in New York, Sydney and all places in between, before breathing new life into The Boat Inn. Dillon lists his hero as Heston Blumenthal for the manner in which he took a village pub and transformed it into a global phenomenon.

And while he can’t dream of achieving quite that level of success – figures like Blumenthal appear but once in a generation – he has already made huge strides and further success is more likely than not.

His food is dreamlike, whether guests are looking for a special occasion restaurant or simply a place that does a magnificent bowl of chips, while service is first class. Little wonder The Boat Inn has a burgeoning reputation as Dillon becomes one of the most exciting cooks in town.

He’s not the only chef in Lichfield to show his prowess. Arguably the best new opening of the past 12 months has been Larder, in Bore Street. Created by chef patron Ryan Shilton, an amiable and technically proficient chef who cooked to three AA rosette standard just down the road, at the ever-popular Swinfen Hall Hotel, it has dazzled. Inspired by the flavours of Asia but celebrating the best of British produce, Larder has had a year to remember.

Indeed, it surely won’t be long before The Good Food Guide, Harden’s, Michelin and the AA start to take an interest in his work. And though such guides rightly wait to see consistency over a period of time before conferring accolades, Shilton’s very much on the right path with interesting food, precise cooking and big, ballsy flavours.

Larder provides a pleasurable eating experience. Plate glass windows provide views from the bar onto Bore Street and a friendly team of staff are on hand to greet diners. The menu offers excitement, innovation and technical excellence.

Shropshire can no longer lay claim to being the rural capital of gourmet Britain. That crown has slipped and if you’re looking for sensational food in the great British countryside, the smart money suggests a trip to the Lake District.

That has stolen a march and now offers the sort of standards that the county once boasted at the turn of the millennium. That’s not to decry the work that is going on. It’s been a year in which the county has welcomed back homegrown talent Warwick Kidd, who is now cooking at the Cross Keys, while Suree Coates’ is back at a perfectly formed boutique restaurant in Ironbridge.

CSons, in Shrewsbury, continues to delight while Shropshire boasts Cedric Bosi’s two Ludlow restaurants – The Charlton Arms and The Church Inn – and Ben Hall’s brilliant The Walrus, in Shrewsbury. They provide a measure of how good Shropshire can be.

There is one shining light on the horizon, of course, and that’s Birmingham.

Second only to London, the Second City has gone above and beyond anything that might have been imagined. It now has five Michelin stars in the city centre, including a new entry for Aktar Islam’s exceptional Opheem.

The city is in glut. An abundance of talent at the highest level has helped to make Birmingham one of Europe’s great culinary cities. Who’d have thought it for a place that at the turn of the millennium could just about manage a decent curry.

Brad Carter, Adam Stokes, Glynn Purnell and Luke Tipping are towering talents whose work is inspiring a new generation.

And away from the city centre, there are huge numbers of brilliant independents that provide food from around the globe. We might have to make the hour-long trek along the M6 to experience the best that Birmingham has to offer, but boy oh boy it’s worth it.

Birmingham rivals a number of outstanding cities in France, Italy, Spain and Germany with diverse and eclectic menus from deeply talented cooks.

Closer to home, it’s been a good year for producers. Staffordshire, Shropshire and the Black Country have a clutch of exceptional producers and retailers whose passion comes to life on the plate.

The ability to transform base metal to gold is perhaps realised nowhere better than at Ludlow Food Centre. It may now have been in existence for more than a decade, but we ought not to take for granted nor overlook the exceptional work that goes on.