I discovered real ale and hearty grub at a traditional pub with the warmest welcome

Not every restaurant in Shropshire is aiming for the stars. There are those who are happy to potter along, on a diet of warm hospitality, Sky Sports, a friendly welcome, and decent food.

The Mason’s Arms in Kemberton, Shifnal, fits squarely into that category.

Not for it the world of haute cuisine – instead, you’re likely to find dogs in the bar, providing they’re well behaved. Camper vans are welcome so that holidaymakers can enjoy the real ale and real fire.

There’s free Wi-Fi, for those who want to do a little work, or just scroll while they’re quaffing a beer.

Terrestrial TV mixes with TNT Sports and a dartboard for those who imagine they’re the next Luke Littler – though, of course, we’re all too old to be that.

The pub is run by Kevin and Luciana Moses and their team, who are keen to welcome all comers.

A warm and inviting environment at The Mason’s Arms in Kemberton, Shifnal

They pride themselves on creating an experience that offers a warm and inviting environment so that people feel at home. And that’s both noble and reassuring.

It’s the sort of well-run, communal venue that once featured in every town and village and that’s all too often being forced to extinction by the competition for our leisure time and the squeeze on finances in the post-Covid, War in Ukraine era.

Because here’s the thing.

There are times for special occasions – for pushing the boat out and spending a small fortune, for going to somewhere upmarket that we’ve dreamed of visiting for weeks and months.

There are times for eating fancy snacks, posh starters, and mains that require a short introduction from staff whose job it is to explain ingredients we’ve never previously heard of.

And then there are times to just relax.

There are times to visit our local, to head to a place where the staff know your name, as well as your favourite drink, and where you can just eat your favourite dish, without putting on a show.

And The Masons Arms is unashamedly in the latter camp.

It’s the gastronomic equivalent of comfortable clobber, rather than a three-piece suit with a dickie bow.

It’s a place to roar on your favourite team, to gossip with friends, family, and colleagues, and to feel a sense of community.

And, curiously, it’s the sort of place where memories are made – because don’t we all feel happier, calmer, and more, well, ‘ourselves’, when we can just switch off and unwind?

Bags of flavour at The Mason’s Arms in Kemberton, Shifnal

In many ways, The Mason’s Arms harks back to a different era. It is part of a cultural landscape that came before gastro pubs and Fancy Dan finger food. It’s also from a time before the culinary world took its shrink-ray gun to our portions.

And so those thinking about a three-course dinner really ought to skip breakfast, lunch, dinner, breakfast, and lunch, before venturing in.

Or, more sensibly – stick to one, decent, really good value main – and squeeze in a starter or dessert, if they really must.

I, of course, decided I ‘really must’ and so began with the pate of the day.

Well-seasoned, coarse, with bags of flavour, it was a pleasing dish. The chutney added a welcome sweetness and acidity, cutting through the savoury meat, while a side salad offered a little lightness and balance.

The ciabatta made for an edible spoon – the perfect vehicle to take the dish from plate to mouth.

It was decent enough and made for a pleasing start to proceedings.

A steak and chips main course was equally enjoyable. The fries might have been a little crisper, the steak perhaps a little more seasoned and rested a little longer. But it was generously served and made for pleasant eating.

You see, here’s the thing. If you’re paying a few quid for steak and chips, it’s best not to expect wagyu – though with Aldi now offering wagyu Denver steaks for £4, you never know.

The dish came with onion rings the size of mugs. They were as crisp and crunchy as car wheels on a gravel road and the onion had become sweet under the high heat of the fryer.

The fries were okay, nothing to write home about, while the steak was decent enough, cooked medium rare and with plenty of flavour.

The dessert choices all sounded great – the selection featured the sort of dishes that many people grew up on, all sweet and hearty dishes designed to please.

However, after a day’s worth of calories in two dishes, I was done.

What about the service at The Mason’s Arms in Kemberton at Shifnal?

Ah yes, service. Service was good. Engaged and attentive, without being deferential or obsequious, the vibe was very much: ‘We’re glad you’re here, we’ll leave you to it, we hope you have a good time, and we’ll be here to help if you need anything from us’.

And, frankly, who can argue with that.

The bill was cheap as the proverbial French fries and a full belly and good experience made The Mason’s Arms a joy to behold.

It would be gilding the lily to describe it as a destination venue – and that’s clearly not in the minds of Kevin and Luciana Moses as they go about their business.

But what clearly is in the minds of the Moses is making people feel relaxed, welcome, and part of their big old extended family.

I, for one, did. And The Masons Arms proved to be a warm and enjoyable pit stop.

Score: 8/10

Sample menu

Starters

King prawns and chorizo £10.95

Creamy garlic mushrooms £9.95

Pate of the day with ciabatta £8.95

Main courses

Liver and bacon £16.95

Fish and chips £16.95

Chilli con carne £16.95

Desserts

Fruit crumble £7.25

Ice cream sundae £7.25

Mason’s mess £7.25