Shropshire Star

'I visited a restaurant with well-curated dishes and dreamy ingredients - another Shropshire gem!'

It’s the town that never fails to delight: Ludlow has earned a reputation for innovation and inspiration across a generation of food.

Published
A delightful burrata dish

From the inception of its exceptional food festival, when a group of local business people wished to generate new markets, to the collection of glittering Michelin stars.

From the creation of a brilliant and thriving farmer’s market to the successful launch of many independent food stores, Ludlow is a town that continues to write new chapters in its story as new talents emerge.

It’s a town that’s hospitable to hospitality, where those willing to work hard, to reach high standards, and to commit to hard work will be rewarded by a discerning local clientele. And it’s gorgeous, too. Ludlow remains one of the prettiest and most perfectly-formed towns in the UK, not just Shropshire, where every visit is a delight.

Kin, therefore, has proved a perfect addition. A family-run café and garden with rooms, it is housed in a beautiful Listed building in the heart of the historic town. And in its relatively short lifetime, it’s already been featured in The Guardian, The Times, The Telegraph, and the I, as well as being listed in the Finals of the West Midlands Tourism Awards for 2024, in the New Tourism Business Category.

Kin, in Ludlow

By all accounts, it’s enjoyed a flying start. It caters perfectly to Ludlow’s market, providing a light and airy dining space that offers easy eating and decent drinks, in addition to four spacious, self-catering holiday apartments, which are available for nightly rates and provide remarkably good value for those who are passing through.

If only all towns offered accommodation at such a high standard and such a competitive price. The family behind the conversion has aced it. Its café is delightful, and quite sensibly opens at times that suit locals and visitors alike, with 9am breakfast being followed by late lunch through until 4.30pm, from Tuesday until Friday, before a later, evening service, extending to 9.30pm, each Saturday. Who could begrudge them their Sunday off and their Monday to recover from it all.

The dining area is a treat. Comfortable, informal, spacious, and tastefully decorated, it reveals a sense of style while also being able to put people at their ease. Kin is a magnificent place to hang out, to enjoy a coffee and snacks, or to eat one of its tastefully-constructed sharing boards, or perhaps an open sandwich.

The range of drinks is as good as anywhere in town, with more types of coffee than there are beans in the average cup.

The pleasant interior

There’s a decent range of alcoholic and soft drinks, a brilliant selection of breakfast dishes that are served until noon – obviously, it’s the Full Ludlow Butcher’s Breakfast, if you’re passing – while there’s an evening menu with tapas dishes including a brilliant baked Baron Bigod brie, with honey, rosemary, hazelnuts and bread.

I called in for a light lunch and was dazzled by the room, the quality of the service, and the food. Ingredients are clearly important and the emphasis on good provenance was an obvious plus.

And so to the starter; a selection of olives from the Ludlow Olive Press. Since its birth in 1996, The Olive Press has grown to provide the finest range of olives, olive oils, and antipasti to farmers’ markets, shops, delicatessen, and restaurants throughout the West Midlands and beyond.

It sources its olives mainly from small-scale groves in Greece and Crete, as well as some from Italy and Spain, and its single-estate, non-filtered, extra virgin olive oils, are from the Kalamata region. Needless to say, the olives were great. One local business supporting another – and making this diner happy at lunchtime. Thanks. Kisses. Hugs.

Olives from Ludlow Olive Press

Next up was a main of burrata, roasted nectarines, dressed leaves, prosciutto, and a mint and chilli dressing. In a word: stunning.

The creaminess of the burrata was enhanced by the sweetness of the summery nectarines. The dressed leaves provided a perfect balance of bitterness, mint elevated the dish to a higher plane, while the chilli added a gentle heat.

It was summer on a plate – visually stunning and gastronomically stimulating. It reminded me of a recent conversation with a two-Michelin-starred chef who’d gone to a restaurant opened by another cook at his level.

A delightful burrata dish

He’d marvelled not at the mains or the razzle-dazzle dishes – but at the flavours he’d imparted to a simple salad. The same was true for Kin. It was a simple dish – cheese, fruit, and leaves – and in the hands of a thoughtful chef, it had hit some sort of culinary sweet spot.

And so to dessert. A gooseberry fool with local berries was tart and sweet, creamy and delightful. Gooseberries are a signature dish for summer and they had been handled with care. Delicious. More-ish. Yum.

Gooseberry fool

A San Pellegrino lemonade helped to wash it all down and all too soon it was time to pay the bill. Gah. I was having fun and could happily have stayed. Kin, however, does that to customers. It’s the sort of inviting restaurant that’s worthy of a return.

Ludlow has been a breath of fresh air across more than 25 years as it’s moved with the times. Kin is the latest reason to visit. A delightful, beautifully designed restaurant that offers well-curated dishes featuring dreamy ingredients, it’s a true delight.

I mentioned service, though only in passing, so let’s dwell a little on that. Service was great. Friendly and attentive, without being intrusive or too knowing, it was first rate. Staff make guests feel as though they’re home-from-home, which pretty much sums up the Kin experience.

Ludlow has generated many stars over the years – some Michelin, others of a different type. With Kin, it’s produced yet another gem.

9/10