I dined in Telford's town centre Lounge and found great food - plus a concept that just works

And so on a balmy summer’s evening, when the Olympics were creating a global village in Paris, and when the temperatures were encouraging men to show milk-bottle legs in shorts, the Lounge was heaving.

As well it might be. Lounges were formed in 2002 by a trio of longstanding friends, Dave Reid, Alex Reilley and Jake Bishop. Having spent years in the restaurant and bar trade – not to mention just as many propping up the bars in Bristol (all of course in the name of research) – they decided it was time they did their own thing. The motivation was simple and very selfish; they wanted somewhere to drink themselves.

An empty opticians on North Street, Bristol, seemed to fit the bill. It had the necessary planning permission, was just about big enough and in reasonable condition. The ‘shell’ included a kitchen so they accepted that they would be doing a bit of food, and after a few months of sort-of-not-knowing-what-they-were-doing, Lounge opened on Tuesday August 29, 2002.

They liked it a lot and so, it seemed, did a lot of other people. They pondered whether they should open another one, maybe on Gloucester Road, and in what was an absurdly short space of time they did, and Lounges was born. The rest, as they say, is history…

There are now Lounges across the UK with menus that are brimful of personality and fun.

The interiors are equally noteworthy, not to mention irreverent. Think sinking into a battered old club chair under a tremendously tassel-y lampshade, overlooked by an eclectic collection of paintings adorning retro wallpaper-covered walls. Resident interior aficionados bring out the soul of every site, with sympathetic design and murals that celebrate the history and spirit of each local community.

So in Telford, the Novello Lounge is a delight. Full of quirky light shades and paintings, stuffed with games and comfortable chairs, it’s a space in which people can chillax and enjoy time with friends. There’s a wonderful ambience as the cares of the day are forgotten and people enjoy the surrounds.

The Lounge’s menu offers something for everyone. Its brunch is exceptional, serving those who want to indulge in substantial fare early in the day, as well as fans of buttermilk pancakes, smashed avocados, and shakshuka – though not all together, of course.

Fabulous

There’s a great range of sandwiches, from a fabulous fish finger sandwich with lettuce and tartare sauce to a twisted chicken club ciabatta. Flatbreads provide healthy eating for those who want to cut down on calories while eating a filling meal, while burgers run the gamut, from a fabulous chicken Kyiv burger to a series of meaty, bacon-filled, cheese-loaded grills.

The mains take inspiration from nations around the world, be that the Caribbean, Thailand, the USA, France, or other quarters.

So there’s a Caribbean chicken curry or a cauliflower version for those who don’t eat meat. There’s a range of buttermilk chicken dishes, as well as a Malaysian-style nasi goreng, with chilli, spring onion, sesame seeds, and a fried egg. A beef brisket dish with chilli and rice offers echoes of the USA while steak fries featuring a 28-day aged rump with garlic butter, veggie parmesan, and a rocket salad suggests a taste of France – albeit the French would be far too smart to swap veggie parmesan for the real thing.

When I called in earlier this week, the place was heaving. The Novello Lounge is a large building, however, and even at the busiest of times, there’s still room for guests. In a quiet corner, I tucked myself away and began with a side of sweet potato fries. Sticky, crunchy, golden, and crisp, they were a treat. Served in a small, silver-coloured pot, they were quickly dispatched.

My main was the beef brisket chilli with chorizo. It featured slow-cooked brisket, chorizo, black beans and mature cheddar, and was served with spicy rice, spring onion, red chilli, and yoghurt. The cheese had been melted on top of the dish, so that it was golden brown and thrillingly unctuous. The rice helped to lighten the density of the dish while thin slices of red chilli added serious oomph. It was a magnificent bowl of food, full of flavours and textures that complemented one another. It was also suitably sized, neither being too large, nor too small, and offering a substantial but not overly-big meal.

Lounges are unhurried. Ordering is across the counter, rather than via table service, where guests browse the menus at their tables before placing their order with staff behind the bar. Service was brisk – remarkably so for a restaurant that was so busy. Within 20 minutes, both dishes had been brought to the table by helpful waiting staff who were simultaneously rushed off their feet, while maintaining their dignity and composure.

The food was great, as were the prices, and it’s easy to understand why the Lounge concept has become such a firm favourite in towns across the UK. They’re like adult common rooms, the sorts of places where people can hang out and take their time while forgetting about the stresses and strains of the day.

Dog friendly, welcoming to children, filled with character, and staffed by a helpful team, Novello Lounge has been consistently good over a period of years. As we hit peak summer and it gets busier than ever, it’s showing no signs of dropping its standards.