Soupçon of Provence

It is a little known fact the inventor of the Great British Christmas cracker was inspired by the sugared almonds of Provence which were once sold wrapped in crackly twists of paper.

It is also a surprise to learn the people of the French Midi have 13 desserts for their Christmas dinner.

Well, that's not strictly true: much to my relief, I discovered "les treize desserts" referred less to a blockbuster parade of cream-packed profiteroles than a tradition of keeping a platter of 13 different fruit, nuts, almond biscuits and cakes to nibble over the festive period in remembrance of Christ and the apostles.

The components symbolise many aspects of Provencal life from walnuts the colour of medieval monk's habits to the celebrated nougat. All homes also have a display of terracotta figurines, "les santons", an ancient French-Catalan folk art tradition.

They represent the Nativity as well as classic characters of Provencal life including the lavender grower and olive picker and even some cheeky modern ones such as "le crapper", a peasant applying low-cost manure to his own land. Zut alors!!

After a Christmas Day meal of oysters, foie gras, salt cod, roast Sisteron lamb scented with wild rosemary and thyme, and winter vegetables such as cardoon, chard, violet artichokes and the sweet red pumpkin of the south, washed down with a superb white or rosé wine from Château Simone – well, frankly, you're as stuffed as a tin of Mediterranean sardines.

The chocolate yule log cake, the lozenge-shaped, iced "Calissons d'Aix" made from almonds, candied melon and orange-flower water and luxurious marrons glacés are there to make you feel like a Downton duchess who has travelled south for the winter.

In the Bouches-de-Rhone region of Provence, it is a tale of two cities. Aix-en-Provence and Marseille are close neighbours but with very different characters. Both repay discovery when you have the chance to explore them under crisp denim-blue skies without the sweltering crowds of high summer.

Overlooked by the towering Mont Ventoux, Aix is refined, elegant and almost Parisian with its super-smart restaurants, spa treatments, boutiques and literary air.

The painter Paul Cezanne captured the charm of his hometown, and his simple but striking palette of ochre, blue and green is drawn from the intense, natural colours of the land and the luminous light.

The small studio-museum where he painted the domestic objects that surrounded him is a step back in time: it was here he declared how he would astonish Paris with an apple. Modern painting would never be the same again.

By contrast, Marseille is gregarious, dynamic and edgy. For anyone brought up on the French Connection image of the port it is an eye-opener. When the Netflix series 'Marseille' starring Gérard Depardieu airs this spring it will put the reborn city back on the map of great Mediterranean destinations.

There are cutting-edge museums and galleries in both cities, and a packed cultural agenda.

In winter, browse the Christmas markets, ride the Marseille wheel overlooking the mast-filled Old Port, jog or cycle the curvaceous promenades, or hike the jagged cliffs and coves of Calanques National Park – literally where the road from Marseille ends. Next stop North Africa.

Naturally, the proximity of the sea is showcased in the city's most famous dish: bouillabaissse, the great saffron and fish stew of the south. The exact recipe and technique are subjects for serious discussion, but seven restaurants have now banded together to form an association to maintain authenticity.

In Provence, every starry night seems to have a full moon – or that just may be the result of too much Ricard pastis, made near Marseille from aniseed and liquorice. You might feel the urge to sing the French national anthem: it was named after the revolutionaries who marched from the city to Paris.

Or copy the exuberant supporters of the OM football team. "Je crains dégun", they roar at the vast vélodrome club – "I fear no-one!" The bourgeoise of Aix might disapprove but their hearts are still full of Provençal pride as they feast on thirteen desserts to ensure good fortune for the year ahead.

Travel Facts

The Spa Sextius offers exclusive spa treatments with water from the natural healing waters of the local hot springs. www.spasextius.com

Excellent food shopping tours and cookery classes both in the city of Marseilles and in a lovely country home near Aix. www.provence-gourmet.fr

Restaurant Michael Féval with the emphasis on local and season ingredients. A welcome new star on the Aix dining scene. www.mickaelfeval.fr

Restaurant le Malthazar is smart but low-key Marseille restaurant with polished cooking.

www.malthazar.com

La Boite a Sardine is a tremendously lively Marseille fish restaurant attached to a fishmonger www.laboiteasardine.com