Shropshire Star

The Crown Country Inn, Munslow

Rating: **** Nestled in stunning surroundings, The Crown Country Inn serves up quality food with a modern twist, as  Sharon Walters finds out.

Published
Trio of Gooseberry dessert

Way back in a decade when flares and perms were fashionable – yes, that's right, we're talking about the 70s – Coca Cola made an iconic advert.

American music mogul Billy Davis recorded a revised version of the New Seekers hit, We'd Like To Teach The World To Sing. The lyrics were re-imagined and for months, TV viewers around the world tuned into this: 'I'd like to buy the world a Coke'.

Inside The Crown Country Inn, Munslow

Lyrically, Davis was right on the money.

'I'd like to buy the world a Coke,' sung to the tune of 'We'd like to teach the world to sing', was followed by the refrain 'It's the real thing'. It cost a mammoth $250,000 – the equivalent of $1.1 million today – a figure that was unheard of. It knocked Coke's Santa Claus ads into a cocked hat.

The advert – and song – took on a life of its own. The New Seekers' version of the tune sold a massive 12 million copies, hitting number one on the chart. Coke did the right thing and donated $80,000 in royalty payments to UNICEF.

The advert even made its way into the Dutch chart, reaching number 13 in 2006 when it was remixed by Netherlands singer Berget Lewis.

The spirit of Coke lives on at The Crown Country Inn, at Munslow, in south Shropshire. When my friends and I visited, we ordered a Diet Coke. And it was delivered, in all its aluminiumed glory, to our table.

Plonk: Can. Glass. Get on with it.

Our waiter might as well have placed it on a red velvet cushion and sounded the fanfare before depositing it with us. "Ladies and gentlemen. Please be upstanding for The Can. A-one, two- three: I'd like to buy the world a Coke . . .'

But I digress. I've been having a whale of a time recently catching up with old friends.

It is so easy to lose contact with the frantic and busy lives we all lead, that I have made a conscious decision to catch up and keep up.

Latest on my list was former colleague Sandy who I have known for so many years but not caught up with for too long. We decided to meet at The Crown Country Inn, at Corvedale, near Craven Arms.

I was rediscovering a real gem of an eaterie that is located in some of Shropshire's most beautiful countryside. The Corvedale is set under the magnficent Wenlock Edge and the Clee Hills and is one of Shropshire's most beautiful locations.

I last went to The Crown Country Inn at Munslow some years ago and the reason I have not been for so long is for the same reason that you lose contact with friends – time slips away and suddenly you wonder where the years have gone.

Jane and Richard Arnold took over The Crown back in 2001 when it was a decent pub with good pub food but needed a little TLC. They have made it into one of the best restaurants not just in the area but in Shropshire and beyond. They have given it special TLC, retaining many of the fabulous period features including inglenook fireplaces, flagstone floors and carvings in wooden beams.

The Crown was first licensed in 1790 and the Grade II listed building dates back to Tudor times when it was a Shropshire Hundred House used by visiting judges to mete out local law.

Surrounded by history there is nothing dated about the superb cuisine served up by chef Richard who holds two AA Rosettes for food, four for the accommodation, mentions in the Good Food and Michelin Guides as well as a host of other publications.

Diners travel lengthy distances to enjoy his food and it was a joy for me to re-discover why on my recent visit for Sunday lunch – albeit with a difference to the traditional normal 'roast'.

We ordered pre-lunch drinks at the bar before we were ushered to our table. Menus arrived and then the drinks . . . gin and tonic for the non-driver with ice and lemon and a Diet Coke for the driver. And now the only real complaint about the entire experience except for not being asked if we wanted wine with the meal before the glasses were whisked away – the Coke arrived in a can which was placed on the table alongside a pint-sized glass. No, no, just not on in a place like this and which I later found out was due to the relative inexperience of the waiter.

Goats cheese and beetroot starter

Shame that such a small detail should feature so high in our experience. But Sandy and I kept looking at the can which remained there for most of the meal.

To whet our appetites homemade grossini (delicate, tiny bread sticks), herb butter, tomato fondue and olives arrived to nibble on while we perused the menu.

Sandy chose a crayfish, prawn and lemon risotto with garden chives and pea shoots to start. It was creamy with a perfect texture while the lemon cut through the richness of the seafood and rice. Crisp, crumbed goat's cheese fritters with marinated beetroot, basil and a raspberry vinegar dressing was my starter choice. Simply stunning, and a dish I would certainly choose again. Delicate balls of goat's cheese were perfectly partnered by the sweet beetroot – not served in miniscule squares but in decent sized chunks which brought alive the taste buds.

It hadn't taken my friend long to choose her main, she went for one of her favourites, pork. The roast loin of local pork came with red onion and sage Yorkshire pudding with homemade sausage meat stuffing and a traditional gravy.

The pork was succulent, moist and showed just how good our excellent local produce can be in the hands of a decent chef. The gravy was served separately, as it should be, with more on offer if needed. My dining friend said it was one of the nicest combinations she had ever enjoyed.

Griddled breast of chicken was my choice. For those who say chicken is tasteless, I say pay a little more to buy a decent bird as Richard obviously does and experience a depth of flavour as in my dish. Crispy skin on the plump meat was so tasty as were the creamy dauphinoise potatoes and creamed butternut squash with bacon that it was served with. I'm not a fan of vast ladles of gravy or sauce but the thyme and button onion jus was perfect. And I'm sure if I had wanted more I could have had some.

And so to pudding. Across the table the choice was lemon brulée which arrived with a berry compote that was just sweet enough and a brandy snap. Sorry to use this phrase but it was a picture on a plate, although it did not last for long under my friend's quick spoon.

Goosberries are not everyone's cup of tea but I love the often maligned fruit. I had a trio with warm local gooseberry friande, as light as air sponge filled with the fruit, a glass of gooseberry fool and a goosberry ice cream with brandy snap.

All I can say is long live the gooseberry! More exotic fruits can be nice but there's nothing wrong with fruit taken from our hedgerows.

Coffee arrived with petit fours made at the hands of a sweetie genius including a tiny meringue topped with whipped cream and raspberry.

I was delighted to re-acquaint myself with both Sandy and the Crown Country Inn. Richard and Jane have built a highly-respected business over the years. Richard cooks in a classical style and uses the best of local produce. He's a class act, a chef who has earned his stripes by cooking consistently good food for more than a decade. Jane, meanwhile, leads a good team and is a skilled maitre d'.

Eating at The Crown is like eating in the relaxed environment of your own home, because that's how comfortable you feel. Discreet enquiries are made as to whether you have everything you need, is everything all right and the like. But they are not constantly pestering you and you are left to enjoy the food and talk a lot!

Pretty perfect lunch but shame about the Coke.

ADDRESS:

The Crown Country Inn, B4368 (Craven Arms to Bridgnorth road), Munslow SY7 9ET

Tel: 01584841205

Web: www.crowncountryinn.co.uk

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