Eat Up, Shrewsbury

Rating: **** Yummy mummies, couples, packs of pals or family gatherings, Eat Up welcomes everyone with its tasty food and quirky style, writes Andy Richardson.

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Eat Up, Shrewsbury

We're Shropshire, not London, and concept restaurants seem as appropriate to our sleepy county as foie gras at a conference for vegetarians. We want decent country pubs, neighbourhood bistros and a smattering of fine dining.

In this parish, Peruvian pop-ups, Brazillian smokehouses and restaurants dedicated to the art of ceviche are as relevant as liquid nitrogen at a Sunday roast.

We know what we like and we like what we know. Or do we?

One Shropshire restaurant has helped to redefine the county's dining scheme in recent years.

Eat Up, in Shrewsbury's Milk Street, has brought a new concept to eating out.

Goat's cheese salad

Its food is smart and stylish, actually, scratch that, that's wrong. It's food is fun and infectious, like a great riff in a pop song. It sticks in the memory and brings a smile to the face. Hell, it makes you feel like dancing – but only at weekends.

The venue eschews sophistication like a combat-short-wearing, long-haired rocker at a Red Hot Chili Peppers gig. It's family-friendly and preppy, it's welcoming and cool, it ticks all of the right boxes for family diners, yummy mummies, couples and friends.