Shropshire Star

Travel review: Frankfurt, Germany

Like its speciality drink, apple wine, Frankfurt is an acquired taste but it is also a pleasant surprise much like the peculiar exhibition in the bathroom at the museum of modern art. Let me explain.

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High-rise sight – a view out on to the city from the room in Maritim Hotel

Frankfurt am Main is an urban jungle that is crawling with sophisticated business men and the occasional tourist. It is a city reborn from the rubble after its destruction of the Second World War.

All the enchanting historical features a tourist would expect to find to learn about the rife history of Germany were replaced with chic and stylish reminders in the form of skyscrapers that epitomised the current economic powerhouse that the country is today.

High-rise sight – a view out on to the city from the room in Maritim Hotel

Frankfurt is a major financial centre of Europe. It is home to the headquarters of the European Central Bank and the Frankfurt Stock Exchange which might not sound appealing as a holiday destination but it was a wholly different experience compared to any other trip.

Blatantly it is not exactly tourist-oriented but that is not to say it did not have its gems, making it a pleasantly surprising experience.

What I expected to be a pint of beer served by a blonde barmaid with plaits was instead the city’s signature apple wine – no, not cider. I got to try apple wine or apfelwein at the charming Lorsbacher Thal at in the heart of the city.

It tasted exactly as the name it implies – like a substitute- in the same way you would only choose sugar water if you did not have any Coca Cola. This is exactly what happened when vineyards in the area in Hessen were the victim of a harsh winter in the 16th century but apples thrived and then apple wine was born.

You know what they say; when life gives you apples, make apple wine. It is an acquired taste but a must when in Frankfurt. With the drink, many can enjoy the traditional bratwurst or schnitzel but I could not enjoy such cuisine due to my dietary requirements. It is nerve wrecking as a vegetarian to visit the sausage-loving Germans but I could and did very much enjoy the traditional kerspatzyle which is essentially macaroni and cheese.

Picturesque place – traditional buildings in Römerberg rebuilt after the war

What is spectacular about the city is the glistening structures that made up the skyline which made it unique compared to a trip to Berlin or Munich.

The towers that were astonishing from down below on the streets of Frankfurt with a crooked neck and a limited view hosted a mesmerising view from above. We travelled 56 floors up Main Tower which is the fourth largest building in Frankfurt, standing at 200m which is 240m if the antenna is included. It was breath-taking and it would have been easy to spend the day there.

There was a clear view out on to the River Main which stretches 327 miles and a cruise on the river offers a different view of the city. A lovely 5km strip of greenery around the centre of Frankfurt showed what the outline of the city used to be when it was first built before it burst out and erupted into the modern metropolis it is today.

Even though I have visited Germany previously, this was like no where I had been to before; it was its own entity that had a cool and calm ambience about it.

Back on the ground, we went on a walking tour through the streets. One moment I was standing before a massive euro sign outside a titanic bank. The next moment I was in the quaint Römerberg, the historical market square where the smell of a traditional bakery wafted through the air and the buildings looked like they were out of a Disney film.

Drink up – local bar Lorsbacher Thal

In the middle of it all is the cathedral, the remnants of the 2,000 year old city before it was destroyed in the Second World War. when Royal Air Force (RAF) dropped 15,696 long tons of bombs on the medieval city centre. It stands large as well as proud in the middle of it all and can be traced back as far as the 7th century which is definitely worth a visit.

Travelling around on public transport via trams, S-Bahns and U-Bahns proved to be very simple – much to my relief because getting lost abroad is my worst nightmare.

Less than a couple of minutes away from a U-Bahn stop is the Maritim Hotel where I stayed. Although the room was kitted out with a TV, it was not necessary considering the view out the window was like a perfect HD picture of the city’s skyline.

Somewhere to stay – the Maritim Hotel

It was a comfortable stay that had a lot to offer from a swimming pool to a spa and gym to, arguably most importantly, good food on call. As the day rolled on into the night, it was strangely quiet. Sophistication oozed from the calm city and whatever was not professional, was done behind closed doors – quite literally. To get into one bar, I had to knock. The night life was stepping out of the modern suave of the city and into the smoky dark red bars with a live singer that could have very well been a scene from a 1920s gangster film.

It definitely felt this way in the Maritim Hotel’s bar which was shrouded in light smoke because it is legal to smoke indoors. A talented musician, magician and funny man flirted with each table performing for each one and making them all laugh without fail.

On the final day, everyone was very excited for the Kleinmarkthalle which is a food market that I had heard many good things about before I arrived. But we learned the hard way that they are closed on Sundays.

Instead, I stumbled across a shocking highlight of the trip which is the Museum of Modern Art or Museum für Moderne Kunst. It may sound dull and pretentious but it is full of little surprises.

The building is a piece of artwork in itself and even a trip to the toilet will lead you into the middle of an exhibit.

Artistic talent – an exhibition at Museum für Moderne Kunst

There were exhibits of fighting manikins, shoes hanging from a telephone wire and carpets scrunched up to look like dogs.

On the way to the toilet, the sound of eerie choir music got louder and in one cubicle it was accompanied by a video projection on the floor. It was both strange and wonderful. Frankfurt is a fantastic contrast between the old and the new offering little unexpected treasures that are not hard find.