Food historian and write Seren to open new delicatessen celebrating local producers

She has been working in the food and hospitality industry since 2007, having previously worked as a herbalist and nutritionist.

As a food historian, Seren uncovers and shares the stories behind the nation’s favourite meals as well as those our ancestors loved to eat and her work has been exhibited at country houses, museums, and castles across Britain.

She also runs award-winning business Bubbling Stove, which produces a wide range of award-winning preserves, puddings and cakes.

And this Friday, she is opening the doors of her new delicatessen, Charrington’s Delicatessen, in Hopkins Passage, Welshpool.

Seren’s love of food has been with her since a very young age, inspired by her grandmother, who was a talented cook.

She became a keen collector of old chemist bottles and later vintage food and drink packaging as well as old and handwritten recipes.

Her love of history led her to giving lectures on herbal lore and the ancient role of the apothecary and over time she began to focus increasingly on British culinary history.

“I became incredibly interested in women’s history, domestic history and how recipes are passed through the generations,” explains Seren.

Seren began sharing insights into the dining habits of our ancestors, recreating old dishes and memorable meals and advising on food history and trends throughout the UK and globally.

“Over the course of my career there have been so many wonderful dishes that I have created, but one of my favourite ones is recreating Medieval subtleties, these foods were designed to deceive in so much that they were not what they looked, for example a recipe called, collops of bacon is actually marzipan (marchpane) moulded and coloured to look like bacon,” she explains.

Seren, who has worked with brands including Sainsbury’s, Aldi, Harvester, Disney and Aunt Bessies, believes food can act as a bridge between the present and the past.

“Food is that thing that ties us all together. It’s something we can look back on in a specific period of history and connect with it because we understand food. It’s fascinating because often some things have a much deeper history than people expect,” she tells Weekend.

Today, her areas of speciality include rural and agricultural history, women’s history, the history of domestic science, dining etiquette and the home front during the First and Second World Wars, as well as food and drink throughout the ages.

Her work has led to her appearing on a number of TV programmes including BBC’s Ration Book Britain, Hairy Bikers Pubs that Built Britain, BBC’s Inside the Factory with Ruth Goodman and Food Unwrapped.

“I have worked with some amazing people and on some wonderful projects. Highlights have included cooking up a traditional pub pie for the Hairy Bikers and working in some amazing historical venues recreating everything from butter beer through to dishes from Shakespeare’s works,” says Seren.

Seren is also the author of the books A Dark History of Tea and Revolting Recipes through History and is currently penning a book on nostalgic foods.

Bubbling Stove was set up in 2012 and since then its products have won more than 100 awards. The most recent was a 1-star Great Taste award for Seren’s Decadent Chocolate Brownies.

Judged by 144 of the most discerning palates, belonging to food critics, chefs, cooks, restaurateurs, buyers, retailers and producers, as well as food writers and journalists, Great Taste is the most coveted of all food and drink awards.

“The crunch on the top was enjoyed and needed as the rest of the brownie is fudgy. You feel this is a homemade small batch brownie – a real treat,” they said.

Seren says she was delighted to receive the award, adding: “The brownies are made in small batches and that’s what makes them special.

“My Christmas pudding is made to an old family recipe of mine. It’s given six months to mature. That’s what’s great about artisan producers, we can give it that time.”

In the future, she is launching a letterbox brownie service so people can order online and receive the chocolate treats by post. As well as stocking her preserves, puddings and cakes, Charrington’s Delicatessen will stock a wide selection of cheeses, pies, meats and regional delicacies.

“There is a bountiful supply of wonderful producers in Powys and Shropshire who are passionate about what they do. We want to support small producers that are just starting out by stocking their produce. Everybody we employ to work in the deli will have a love of good food and locally sourced food.

“People coming into the deli will be able to purchase a sharing board and good coffee, which will be Fairtrade so it’s as ethical as it can be,” she added. “I have a great passion for all things food. I love sharing it with others and talking about it.”

See charringtoncatering.co.uk