The Crown, Albrighton

Star rating: **** I hadn't intended visiting the Crown in Albrighton. A knowledgeable local had directed me to a "drinkers' pub" a few yards down the road because it served excellent "pub grub".

However, we arrived to discover this was available only at lunchtimes unless you pre-booked.

As it happened The Crown filled the bill admirably, providing satisfying, value-for-money meals in an efficient manner and in convivial surroundings. Just the job.

It's an old established premises which has been extended significantly. There are cosy, comfortable corners as well as a long bar and spacious dining areas ideal for larger groups.

Although its official title is as a hotel the owners Marston's brewery describe it as a "community pub". I think that's fine. It's family friendly, has amenities like plasma screen sport as well as offering pub games. But it is large enough to accommodate customers seeking a bit of civilised peace and quiet.

As is the pattern with pub chains, you can choose from the large and extensive printed menu but at the Crown there was also a couple of chalkboards offering further, chef's special choices. Orders were taken at the bar and table numbers given.

Not surprisingly Libby settled on the deep-fried Brie wedges to begin with. They were gratefully despatched, being hot, gently flavoured and accompanied by a fresh, crisp salad.

I had the pair of bulging potato skins (£2.95). Hot, full of melted cheese packed with tender ham and with a fresh mixed salad. The garlic mayonnaise dip added to the pleasure. It was a good start.

It was Cajun chicken (£5.50) for Libby. I ate some of it as it was a rather generous portion. I like normal, plain, properly cooked chicken (having been brought up on it) but it is only when I taste highly-flavoured chicken dry-cooked (as in Cajun chicken) that I realise traditional British tastes have for generations been missing out.

It was accompanied by acceptable chips and a sour cream and chive dip.

Next it was sirloin steak (£7.45 for eight ounces) for me. Nothing too adventurous there but with a glass of red wine I find it a guaranteed stomach pleaser. I asked for pepper sauce (an extra £1) - again knowing that it would probably not be as hot as I would like, which is approaching arc-welding levels.

Pubs have to cater for those who prefer their flavourings in the mediocre range.

The accompaniments - grilled tomato, chips and peas - were fine but I did miss not having at least one onion ring.

And if you want to round things off in style, look no further than the mega chocolate brownie sundae which, although it costs £5.25, is designed for two or even three to share. With two sorts of ice cream, marshmallows, chocolate brownie, flakes, wafers and cream it has got the lot. Pure indulgence.

It was all good, wholesome food, served in good time by pleasant, smart, helpful staff and everything was very keenly priced.

The range of choices was bordering on the colossal. Apart from the main courses and the grills and the "mega meals" featuring such delights as a 16-ounce rump steak, there were pasta and salads, light bites like burgers and four-ounce gammon steaks.

Or jacket potatoes, wraps or baguettes - and during the afternoons they offered "golden greats" such as breaded plaice, cheese and tomato pasta or steak and Marston's ale pie plus a pudding for only £3.95 with tea or coffee added for only 50p.

Sunday roasts are priced at £5.25 and all day every day they have their curry club providing a meal for only £4.95.

There's got to be something there for just about everyone.

The Crown, High Street, Albrighton, near Shifnal. Tel: 01902 372204

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Nachos bowl topped with melted cheese, salsa and sour cream (£2.85).

Breaded mushrooms with garlic mayonnaise dip (£2.85)

Main courses

Fried breaded scampi (12 wholetails) with chips and peas (£5.65)

Lamb shank in a rich, mint gravy served on a pile of mash and vegetables (£5.95)

Desserts

Toffee apple crumble served with custard (£2.65)

Chocolate junkyard (chocolate pastry filled with Belgian chocolate mousse with shavings and chunks of chocolate and served with vanilla ice cream (£2.65)

ATMOSPHERE

One area lively and bright, other areas secluded and relaxed

SERVICE

Friendly and efficient

DISABLED FACILITIES

Excellent, purpose-built facilities for the disabled with easy access