The Bulls Head, Rodington

Star rating: **** It's not often you come across a country pub that ticks all the right boxes, when it comes to food, service and surroundings, but The Bulls Head at Rodington does just that, writes Cathy Stanworth.

Myself and my partner Simon had been planning to try out the pub for a couple of months, yet commitments to children, holidays and social events meant we had to keep putting it off.

Now, after eating there, my advice to you is don't put your visit off, get yourself down there.

The Bulls Head has always had a good reputation. It was so busy that it wouldn't take bookings. And new owners John Booth and Michelle Demonge (of Shelley's Florist, in Wellington), have decided to do even better.

John was trained by the De Vere Group in general management. He had The Derby Arms at Frealey, Lancashire, and then The Charlton Arms in Wellington, which he left in 2000.

He was tempted out of retirement last August to take the pub on with Michelle. They shut it down before beginning a total programme of refurbishment, and the work included completely redesigning and investing heavily in the kitchens.

It has now been going for six months and is doing very well. It is described as "a traditional pub serving delicious homemade food".

Although from the outside it doesn't look too different from before, on walking in you could tell it had had a facelift. The decor was bright and cheery and everywhere was really clean - as were the newly re-done loos.

The pub had a warm and welcoming atmosphere and the smiling lady behind the bar matched this. She attended to us straight away, taking our drinks order for a pint of Carling (£2.60) and a large glass of house red (£3.70).

She asked where we planned to sit and said that, as well as tables at the front of the pub, there were also tables at the rear. We decided to sit at a quiet corner table in the front, as it was quite busy at the back. We were visiting early on a Friday evening.

We were handed copies of the substantial menu and also a good specials board was pointed out to us.

For starters I ordered Duck Spring Rolls served on a bed of dressed salad and served with Hoi Sin sauce (£3.95). Simon ordered Seasonal Potato Wedges served with a garlic mayonnaise dip and salad garnish with cheese and bacon (£3.25).

We were both in the mood for steak and chips, and the menu included a choice of four different steaks, from £9.95 to £12.95. They are all served with mushroom and grilled tomato, garden peas and chips.

I went for an 8oz sirloin (£10.95), while Simon went for an 8oz fillet £12.95.

There wasn't too much of a delay before our starters came. They both looked good and were hot. They were also of a good enough portions - I don't want a starter so big that I can't squeeze in my main course, yet neither do I want a starter the size of a box of matches. What we got was just right.

My spring rolls were tasty. The wrappers were cooked just right and the filling was generous and tasty. The accompanying Hoi Sin sauce was very hot and came in a little pot in which to dip your rolls. The salad dressing was very fresh. They soon disappeared.

Simon's potato wedges were satisfying. They were hot, tasty and again he got a decent portion of them. The mayonnaise was good and again the salad garnish very fresh.

Our plates were soon cleared and we were asked, more than once while dining, if everything was OK.

Our mains soon followed. We were both very pleased with our steaks and the chips. The peas did look a little pale, but tasted OK. The chips were fat, golden and plentiful. The steaks were both of a good size. The tomato was nicely grilled and the mushrooms were properly cooked and had plenty of flavour.

We couldn't squeeze in a pudding, although it looked like the pub had a good choice. We finished with a coffee (£1.20) instead.

Fully satisfied, we paid our bill and left. The Bulls Head had got the thumbs up all round.

ADDRESS

The Bulls Head, Rodington, Shrewsbury

Tel 01952 770219

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Icelandic Prawn Platter (£4.25); Homemade Chicken Liver Pate (£3.95); Barbecue Spare Ribs (£3.95).

Main courses

Bulls Head ham (ham shank slowly oven-cooked and glazed with a honey and mustard dressing) (£8.25); Homemade steak and ale pie (prime steak diced and cooked in Greene King ale topped with short crust pastry (£6.95); Half roasted chicken (slow roasted and served with sage and onion stuffing and chef's chicken gravy) (£5.95).

Desserts

Homemade Apple and Red Cherry crumble (£3.45); Lemon and Clotted Cream Dessert (£3.45); Parfait Caramel (£3.45).

ATMOSPHERE

Warm, welcoming, relaxed.

SERVICE

Friendly, efficient, professional. We felt looked after.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Flat disabled access from side car park and disabled toilets on radar keys available.