Huntsman, Little Wenlock

Star rating: *** After listening to our wedding banns being read in church for the first time (I knew I could get my favourite subject in somewhere!) we decided to treat my parents to a Sunday roast at The Huntsman, writes Kirsty Marston.

We had discussed walking up the Wrekin first to burn off some calories but that seemed to go by the wayside, and straight to the pub it was.

I had seen work being done on the exterior of the pub over the last few months and was hopeful of a traditional Sunday roast. Our hopes were answered in a more than satisfactory manner.

But I know what you are thinking . . . "Isn't that the pub which got zero on Telford & Wrekin Council's 'Scores on the Doors' survey this week?" Indeed it is.

But after enjoying a three-course meal there just a week before the scores were published, I was intrigued enough to ring the landlord, John Hassall, to find out what went so wrong.

He openly explained that he and his wife Jackie took over the Punch Taverns pub in August last year, knowing the kitchens did not meet the regulations but planning to put them right.

In January the health inspectors made their visit to conduct the Scores on the Doors study, just a month before the already-planned £20,000 kitchen revamp was started, Mr Hassall explained.

Sadly the Scores on the Doors judges do not seem to revisit premises after landlords have put everything right and before they publish the scores online.

So with my mind (and hopefully yours) put at rest, I can get back to the review.

The Huntsman is a typical "olde worlde", village pub. We were given a friendly welcome at the bar and told a waitress would show us to our table. Within seconds, yet another friendly face arrived and we were seated.

At just gone 12.15pm we were one of the first tables to dine, but as our meal progressed the dining room became very busy with diners, including many who seemed to be regulars.

In traditional style, a waitress read out the menu to us and took our order at the table. This is always a much better start to a meal than having to remember what everyone is having and then order at the bar.

My mum and I opted for the soup of the day, John had the egg mayonnaise, while Dad went for the potato wedges. All four were polished off swiftly, with the only comment that the wedges may have been better with a topping such as melted cheese.

The young members of staff, who were all smartly dressed and polite, cleared our dishes and offered us more drinks at the table. Another welcome touch to the dining experience.

A short time later (not long enough that you think they have forgotten about you; not so quick that it makes you fear a microwave has been in action) our main courses arrived.

All four of us went for the beef, and that was a good choice by all - it was generously sliced with a plentiful helping of meat and roast potatoes.

The vegetables of the day were served in large, hot tins - plenty for everyone. One of my biggest gripes is when you are served vegetables with a roast lunch but you only get enough for one carrot baton each.

We were even offered more vegetables half-way through the meal, although we really didn't need them.

The plates, gravy, meat and vegetables - in fact everything - were served piping hot and there wasn't a complaint from anyone. The beef was in fact the most tender I have enjoyed during a meal out for a long time (Not quite as good as Mum's though).

When the wedding talk eventually came to a pause I noticed the quiet background music playing - it created the relaxing atmosphere which was needed.

The two levels of the restaurant also created a space which prevented tables being too close together - again, something I could winge about all day.

On to the desserts: I had planned a criticism that none of the sweets was homemade, but it subsequently appears that some of them on the menu were indeed homemade. Unfortunately, the waitress didn't at the time tell us which they were.

What a difference the word "homemade" makes in the description of starter, main or dessert.

However, I went for the Black Forest gateau which obviously wasn't homemade but was certainly fresh and tasty, and was polished off promptly. A request for ice cream instead of cream was not a problem.

John and Mum finished off with a coffee but I was too full to fit even that in.

I was really saddened to see the Scores on the Doors rating for The Huntsman but I hope people go and find out for themselves; it is a great village pub with good-quality food and service.

Also, with £40,000 being spent on the exterior of the pub, including a new outdoor drinking area, it is the perfect place to quench your thirst after walking up the Wrekin or in the picturesque Ercall area.

ADDRESS

The Huntsman, Little Wenlock TF6 5BH

Telephone 01952 505820

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Melon fan dressed with seasonal fruits (£2.95); Prawn cocktail (£3.95); Paté (£3.45)

Main courses

Horseshoe gammon (£8.45); Butterfly cajun chicken breast (£8.75); Homemade lasagne (roasted vegetable or meat) (£7.95); Homemade pies - chicken, bacon and leek (£7.95) or beef and ale (£8.45)

Sides

Cheesy garlic bread, pan-fried mushrooms, onion rings and a range of steak sauces (from £1.75)

Desserts

Homemade bread-and-butter pudding (£2.95); Range of homemade cheesecakes (£2.95); Chocolate-and-raspberry torte (£3.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Very welcoming. Relaxed in the bar area for drinkers and more formal in the restaurant.

SERVICE

Young, attentive and polite waiters and waitresses.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Limited disabled access but staff are always willing to help. Small step at the front and three steps into restaurant.