Old Gate Inn, Heathton
Star rating: *** Great expectations can sometimes be a curse, writes Ian Harvey. Expect a little too much and you're often left disappointed.
Star rating:*** Great expectations can sometimes be a curse, writes Ian Harvey. Expect a little too much and you're often left disappointed.
It's something that was much on my mind after a visit to the charming Old Gate Inn in the tiny hamlet of Heathton, near Claverley, close to Halfpenny Green Airport and about eight miles from Bridgnorth.
Had I simply chanced upon the Old Gate on a country walk I would have been more than happy with my meal there, with its welcoming bar, real ale, friendly service and tasty fayre.
However, my partner Debs and I had been more than enticed by the menu on the pub's website.
Being vegetarian, I was delighted to see a good degree of choice on the online menu, my mouth watering at the thought of spring pea and mint soup with pepper creme fraiche; tomato confit and a salad of green beans with salad oil; goat's cheese and potato terrine with a salad of baby beets; vegetable and potato croquette with red onion marmalade and chive beurre blanc; and courgette, thyme and Stilton charlotte with a fondue of leeks.
Veggie nirvana, it appeared.
But Debs said it all when we spied the printed menu mounted outside: "Is that it?"
My veggie choices had dwindled to garlic bread, possibly the soup of the day, garlic cheese ciabatta bread and the "vegetarian dish of the day". Oh dear.
Nevertheless we pressed on inside.
The Old Gate can trace its history back to at least 1784. That history is more than evident in the charming bar, with its restaurant off to one side. With a collection of toby jugs hanging from the beamed ceiling and ancient skates and boots on one of the walls, it is the very picture of an Olde Worlde England.
In fact we were disappointed that the American business woman who followed us into the pub a few moments later didn't exclaim: "Oh wow, your English pubs are so cute!"
Settling down with a couple of pints, including Shropshire Lass from Woods, our spirits were lifted when we spotted a specials board, which extended our choices a little. On inquiring, we were told that the vegetarian dish of the day was mushroom stroganoff.
Luckily the specials board came to the rescue for our starters, with Debs going for cheese garlic ciabatta bread (£3.50) while I was rather taken with the idea of caramelised onion and goat's cheese en crout (£4.20).
Debs' cheese garlic ciabatta bread was a pleasant enough way to start the meal but I was delighted with my choice, with the creamy goat's cheese a perfect foil for stickily sweet chopped caramelised onion, which was served atop a slice of ciabatta. There was also a fresh salad with the sweetest of dressings.
With the main courses on the way I enjoyed my second real ale of the evening, this time a pint of XXX from the Three Tuns brewery.
My main was the aforementioned and ubiquitous mushroom stroganoff (£8.95), which came with a serving of white rice. The mushrooms were nice and chunky and the sauce reasonably flavoursome, while the rice was soft and fragrant.
I had ordered a portion of chips too, which were chunky and crunchy and came in a separate bowl. There was also a salad which was an exact clone of the one I had with my starter (sorry, but for some reason that bugs me).
Debs went for creamy fish pie topped with Cheddar mash, which was served with chips and veg.
It was a concoction of white fish, fresh salmon and prawns in a creamy white sauce with a crunchy cheese topping, which Debs said was lovely.
We decided to share a dessert and plumped for a mascarpone and summer fruits trifle (£4), which was not too big and packed with flavour, the fruit zingy and sharp.
So the Old Gate was a hit, for sure. But we just wished that it had lived up to its online build-up.
Great expectations indeed.
ADDRESS
The Old Gate Inn, Heathton, near Claverley.
Tel: 01746 710431
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Homemade soup of the day (£4.75); Cheese garlic ciabatta bread (£3.50)
Main courses
Steak and Guinness pie (£10.95); Chicken a la Gate, wrapped in bacon and topped with melted mature Cheddar (£10.95); Griddled 10oz gammon horseshoe served with eggs (£9.95)
Desserts
Raspberry brulee, Jam sponge, Lemon and sultana cheesecake (all £4)
ATMOSPHERE
Traditional, relaxed and cosy
SERVICE
Friendly and attentive young staff
DISABLED FACILITIES
Access to the bar, where you can eat, is on the level from the car park but there are steps up to the restaurant
SMOKING POLICY
There is a south-facing garden at the rear
