Loch Fyne, Shrewsbury

Star rating:**** Good news has been pretty thin on the ground for me lately, writes Sharon Walters.

On the eve of a much-needed and eagerly anticipated holiday in Padstein - sorry Padstow - my partner chopped off the end of his finger in an accident.

Cue nurse Florence to administer emergency first aid and whizz him up the A49 to A&E at the Royal Shrewsbury Hospital.

Three days in said hospital ensued for treatment and an operation. Holiday was off and I was so looking forward to Rick Stein's fish and chips and a crab sandwich in a lovely pub right on the harbour.

Then I had to drive the brave little soldier around as he nursed his hand in a sling. Flo also had to cut up his food and tie up his shoelaces. I smiled a lot but it was more of a grimace at times.

But then good news did reach me, and went some way to making up for the loss of dining out in Padstow.

A Loch Fyne restaurant had opened in Shrewsbury - wonderful. This 40-strong upmarket chain of fish specialists has been going for around 10 years and I have eaten well at a number around the country.

So off I went in the ambulance - sorry car - one midweek evening.

The restaurant is in rather smartly converted former bank chambers. Lofty ceilings, stripped wooden floors and a great chill cabinet to inspect the fish on offer each day, should you wish to do so.

Meet and greet is very good, and we were given practically the pick of all the tables as we were early diners (although the restaurant is open all day from noon).

Settled at a table by the window, menus were produced and a drinks order taken. A basket of fresh and tasty bread arrived but no butter or olive oil. Minus point.

So much fish to choose from . . . so little time.

However, I finally went for six Loch Fyne oysters (£9) and the patient for Loch Fyne smoked haddock chowder (£6).

My oysters were plump and juicy but for me not served quite right. The menu advised that they came with chilli and coriander dressing, lemon wedges, shallot vinegar and Tabasco sauce.

I don't care for chilli and coriander with oysters but I do love shallot vinegar and Tabasco. The shallot vinegar was very lacking on the vinegar front, leaving the shallots bone dry. I had to request the Tabasco.

In addition, some form of seaweed was still attached to the oysters and while it is quite nice as an adornment lying on the crushed ice beneath I don't expect to have to pull it off the shell before I can slip the treasure that lies in it into my mouth.

Sorry to go on, but instead of having an oyster fork to free the fish from the shell I was offered a spoon. That's not good enough for a specialist fish restaurant like this.

The chowder, chosen for the ease with which it can be eaten single-handedly, was thick and creamy with chunks of perfect smoked haddock. I couldn't resist dipping a piece of the lovely bread in for a taste.

I had chosen the poached Loch Fyne smoked haddock with mash, spinach, pea and wholegrain mustard (£11) next. Knowing the quality of the fish from my stolen taste, I knew I would not be disappointed. It was fantastic; two fillets of properly oak-smoked fish with a delicate yet firm taste.

The mash hadn't been processed to death and still had decent texture, while the spinach, pea and wholegrain mustard worked perfectly. I almost wiped the dish clean with bread.

The invalid had another easy-to-eat dish, and one he is very fond of - Loch Fyne king scallops pan-fried with garlic butter (£14). The waitress did ask if he wanted any side orders as "they don't come with anything" and he had a mixed salad (£3.50).

I managed to steal half a scallop, purely on the grounds of research, before they disappeared.

These had indeed just been shown a hot pan on each side and were perfect. The garlic butter was discreet and did not overpower their flavour, while the salad was top notch with rocket, baby gem, fennel, tomatoes and red onion with a basil-and-garlic dressing.

While the main courses appear good value many do indeed come without any accompaniment and adding on, say, a salad or a portion of vegetables and a potato dish does crank up the price. In fairness I have to say that they do a special two-course meal for £11 between noon and 7pm.

I love trying different cheeses and couldn't resist the selection of three on offer for £4.50. This included oatcakes and shallot marmalade. Let's just say I think there is a problem with shallots at Loch Fyne - once again it was far too dry. But the cheeses were tip top. Crme brulée with homemade shortbread was the other choice and was perfect.

And now for my other gripe - the price of wine. They really should source a decent house at less than £15 a bottle. And yes, you can do that and get a decent mark-up.

For all my little moans I thoroughly enjoyed the food and will definitely be returning.

Hopefully the shallot problem will be sorted and there will be proper cutlery for oyster eaters.

ADDRESS

Loch Fyne Restaurant, Market Street, Shrewsbury.

Tel: 01743 277140

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Moules marinires (£6); marinated Loch Duart salmon with beetroot and fennel salad (£6).

Main courses

Pan-fried fillets of bream with rocket pesto and roasted garlic mash (£13); Glen Fyne prime Highland eight-ounce sirloin steak, dry-aged for 28 days (£17).

Sides

Seasonal vegetables (£2.50); new potatoes (£2.50).

Desserts

Fresh fruit jelly with lemon sorbet (£4.50); Chocolate and orange tart with pineapple compote (£4).

ATMOSPHERE

Pleasant and relaxed in contemporary setting.

SERVICE

Staff were welcoming and friendly but I had to ask for the bill three times!

DISABLED FACILITIES

Full disabled facilities