Old Hand & Diamond Inn, Coedway

Star rating: *** On a slightly rainy summer's Wednesday eve my friend and I decided to take a drive to a country pub on the border between England and Wales, writes Catherine Roche.

Thinking we were heading to Wales on a winding road we presumed we might be in for a lengthy journey. But the road (the B4393) to the the Old Hand & Diamond Inn, Coedway, near Shrewsbury is neither lengthy nor winding and took hardly any time at all.

On arrival we found a very pretty and well-presented white building. Stepping inside the cottagey premises nestled in countryside, we found a cosy and traditional looking bar, with wooden chairs and tables and brass and deer heads hanging from the walls.

We were greeted immediately by the jovial bar lady who directed us to places we could sit to eat, read the menus, and started up a handy tab for us.

The menu featured nothing groundbreaking but told of good, local home-cooked food.

I had just been for a lengthy run and was starving.

The starters offered soup, prawn cocktail, paté and mushrooms which you expect to see as staples on this sort of menu.

So I chose the deep-fried Brie wedge to get some calories and my notoriously picky-eater and fellow Shropshire Star reporter friend, Lizzie Yates, went for the soup of the day.

At first we were told this was tomato and basil but the bar lady came hastily running out of the kitchen to set the record straight - it was actually cream of asparagus. Even better said Lizzie.

After a short wait, the food arrived and Lizzie exclaimed with delight at her traditional soup serving bowl with bears heads for handles. Moments later another squeal at the delicious taste. And after dipping in I concurred - creamy, hot, not too salty and a good measure of asparagus.

My Brie was sizeable, standard and nice and soft inside. The breadcrumb casing was a bit too hard unfortunately and the salad lacked any dressing. But the cherry tomato and cranberry salsa was delicious.

A swift clear of the plates by our waitress and the correct cutlery arrived for the mains.

We had both chosen off the specials menu which I thought was reasonably priced although more expensive than the general menu which averages at about £8 a meal.

I ordered prime Coedway ribeye steak topped with Stilton and laced with port, and Lizzie plumped for pan-fried breast of chicken in a garden herb, Caerphilly cheese and Chablis sauce.

Soon after they came, and again well presented, sizeable and hot.

My steak was not overcooked and I was glad to see a chef who doesn't think medium means rock hard.

I thought the Stilton and port would form a sauce but it was melted on top and the port was in more of a jus.

Lizzie always seems to order chicken breast and doesn't actually like it all that much. So I was pleased to see she ate half of her chicken and would have eaten more if she wasn't getting full from soup and bread.

We both had plenty of chips and new potatoes and a good selection of seasonal veg but for two people we would have preferred more vegetables.

Lizzie commented that her creamy sauce was a bit overpowering after her creamy soup. I suggested she become a better orderer.

After this we were stuffed, but I felt my calorie intake could do with a more of a bashing and as creme brulee was the only thing Lizzie thought she could help me with, that's what we had.

Again all the favourites were on the dessert menu to cover, fruit, chocolate, ice cream and stodge.

Our lovely waitress, who had been attentive throughout, furnished us with two spoons and two shortbread biscuits, which was very sweet.

We cracked through the top, Lizzie's favourite part she informed me, and fell into heaven. Creamy, smooth, and flavoursome brulee. We were too full for the shortbread but wrapped it up and took it home so as not to be rude.

Overall we were full and satisfied. Nothing disappointed and LIzzie ate it all which is a big thumbs-up. The service was top class and I would visit again, especially after a walk in the wilderness.

The bar lady who we overheard telling customers she worked every day, even seemed chuffed with a tip, well she deserved it.

ADDRESS

The Old Hand & Diamond, Coedway, near Shrewsbury.

Tel: 01743 884379.

www.oldhandanddiamond.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Deep-fried Brie wedge resting on a green salad with a cherry tomato and cranberry salsa (£5.25); Grilled black pudding laced with a honey and grain mustard sauce (£4.25)

Main courses

Fish of the day deep fried in a light beer batter served with chips, lemon wedge and mushy peas (£7.95); Mediterranean tart in a light pastry with roasted vegetables, tomatoes and mozarella with salad (£9.50)

Desserts

Pavlova filled with fresh strawberries and Chantilly cream; Rich banoffee pie; Sticky toffee pudding (all £4.50)

ATMOSPHERE

Quite busy. Everyone was chatting and lots of people coming and going

SERVICE

Very good. Staff were helpful and courteous

DISABLED FACILITIES

Good. The pub has access for wheelchair users to enter the premises from the back and disabled toilet facilities.