New Inn, Hook-a-Gate

Star rating: *** A trip to a traditional pub a short drive outside Shrewsbury seemed the perfect choice on a warm summer evening for three friends who had something to celebrate, writes Lizzie Yates.

Pulling up into the car park of the New Inn, in Hook-a-Gate, we looked out to greenery all round. Just five minutes drive from my colleague and friend Catherine Roche's home in Shrewsbury, we were already enjoying a bit of fresh air and evening sunshine.

It had been a while since Catherine and I had seen our friend Laura Bradbeer, who had just announced she'd got a new job. We were looking forward to what we hoped would be a delicious meal to mark the occasion.

Entering the New Inn, we found ourselves in well-presented and traditional pub surroundings.

The place looked clean and welcoming. It was only about 7pm on a Thursday but already the pub was bustling with drinkers and diners.

The building is roughly split into two sections, a pub area with a number of tables, which Laura described as "olde worlde" and a more formal and modern restaurant area.

Confused as to where we should sit, we made our way to the bar and plonked ourselves down on the seats where a polite waitress immediately asked us what we would like to drink.

We were told that in the restaurant there was no space and that we would have to sit in the bar area.

This was acceptable so we went to sit down, before quickly being informed that there was now a space in the restaurant for us.

Our new spot enjoyed much more light and air and we were presented with the menus which represented a wide choice with starters and a number of meat, fish and vegetarian options.

It featured dishes made with local produce, such as the Wenlock Edge award winning farm sausages. The menu stated that the pub had been owned and run by the Hunter family since 1915. It also said that all dishes were freshly prepared to order.

Already feeling quite peckish, Laura and Catherine decided to share a traditional prawn cocktail for a starter, while I plumped for the tomato and pepper soup (£4.95), which the menu promised would be served with a warm crusty roll.

Unfortunately this was not the case. When I sliced open the bread roll I found it to be frozen in the middle. I had to send it back and it appeared on its return as if the same roll that we had all previously prodded had been reheated.

The soup on the other hand was delicious. Catherine and Laura said their sizeable prawn cocktail (£4.95) fulfilled expectations.

Our table became a carnival of colour when our main courses arrived.

Laura, who appreciates fine foods that are made in Shropshire, chose a pure lean open beefburger (£7.95), which the menu informed us was made by local butcher Ivor Bywater. It was served on toasted bread and topped with melted cheese and onion rings, along with chips and salad. She said it was simple yet delicious.

Catherine's option - the salmon fillet with a prawn and lobster sauce (£9.95) - certainly looked impressive.

But she was disappointed to find the salmon "very undercooked" and upon inspection, Laura agreed with that description. The accompanying chive mash was too salty for Catherine's taste while the "fresh" vegetables looked decidedly unfresh and indeed quite stringy.

Described by Catherine as a "notoriously picky eater" I had decided to branch out to try a meal I would not usually order.

The home made roasted vegetable and goats' cheese lasagne was a sight to behold.The portion was huge - in fact all of ours were - and my plate was full with generous portion of lasagne, colourful salad and chips.

By this stage we were all pretty stuffed, but we could not fail to be enticed by the fancy selection of desserts on the board on the wall.

The fresh strawberries and large meringue nest with vanilla ice cream, cream and chocolate sauce was presented superbly and tasted as good as it looked but was simply too much to finish. Laura was also given a generous helping of ice-cream.

After paying the bill, we clambered back into the car feeling that while our dining experience on the whole had been good, we had enjoyed nothing which could be described as spectacular.

The New Inn promises so much with its array of impressive dishes, formal restaurant area and great presentation. I couldn't help but be charmed by the friendly service and pretty location.

But the three of us agreed that the locally produced beef burger was by far the best meal we had sampled. It was a high end version of a classic pub favourite that worked extremely well.

Perhaps the pub would benefit by focusing more on its traditional dishes made with Shropshire produce.

ADDRESS

New Inn, Hook-a-Gate, near Shrewsbury, SY5 8B

Telephone: 01743 860223

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Creamy garlic and Stilton mushrooms served with warm crusty roll and butter (£4.95); warm goats' cheese on toasted bread with caramelised onions and salad (£4.75)

Main courses

Wenlock Edge farm award winning pork sausages served with chive mash, fresh vegetables and gravy (£7.95); home-made roasted vegetable and goats' cheese lasagne with roasted red peppers, courgettes, mushrooms, onions and tomatoes, served with salad and chips or jacket £9.95

Desserts

Fresh strawberry meringue nest with vanilla ice-cream and hot chocolate sauce (£3.95); range of Movenpick ice-creams (£2.95 for two scoops)

ATMOSPHERE

Welcoming and busy in clean and pleasant surroundings.

SERVICE

Staff were friendly but service average

DISABLED FACILITIES

Pub and toilets could be accessed by disabled although some doorways are narrow