Cookhouse, Bromfield, Ludlow

Star rating:**** The Cookhouse came to us at the worst possible time, writes Andy Richardson. In recent weeks, my wife and I have been on something of a culinary journey.

We've dined at wonderful establishments, like the Michelin-starred Holbeck Ghyll, in the Lake District, where the food and service were equally sublime.

And we've eaten a dinner prepared by Simon Rogan, the Good Food Guide's chef of the year, who oversees the impeccable Michelin-starred L'Enclume, at Grange-over-Sands. Rogan is a culinary genius whose cutting-edge skills are comparable with Heston Blumenthal's.

Following such high-falutin' gastronomic adventures, experience has taught us to be underwhelmed. So we were concerned that our visit to The Cookhouse, near Ludlow, would leave us feeling as cold as an iced parfait.

Located just off the A49, at Bromfield, near Ludlow, The Cookhouse is a picturesque pub-cum-restaurant. It is a class act and is enjoying something of a renaissance, given its prime location beside the Earl of Plymouth's Ludlow Food Centre.

Increasing numbers of discerning customers are flocking to it, having visited the adjacent temple to foodie indulgence.

As a venue, The Cookhouse is equally suited to customers who want to share an informal pint with friends as it is for those seeking gourmet a la carte dinners.

We arrived unannounced and were pleased that a table for two was available in the restaurant. A waitress brought us drinks and menus that reflected the abundance of good quality local produce available in the area.

While we considered the tempting dishes, neighbouring customers received huge platters of fish and chips. They looked a treat.

The chips were chunky and golden brown while the puffed-up batter looked crisp and appetising. The temptation to ditch the gourmand's menu in favour of something altogether more humble was almost overwhelming. But, in the interests of research, we stuck to the task at hand, resolving to visit again soon for bar food.

After being shown into the dining room, we were presented with some homecooked bread to whet our appetites. Our starters arrived soon after. I'd opted for the scallops with charred pancetta and citrus-dressed leaves.

I happily received a plate of three plump, juicy mollusks that had been expertly pan fried and still had their soft, reddish corals attached. Well-dressed salad leaves garnished the plate while the pancetta added a sweet/salty contrast. Delicious.

My wife, sensibly, decided to forego her starter, hoping she'd still have room for a dessert later on.

There was a much-needed pause before our main courses arrived. My wife had selected the breast of free range chicken wrapped in smoked bacon with a morel sauce, sweet potato mash and seasonal vegetables.

She was delighted with it. The chicken was moist and tender, the bacon nicely crisped and the sweet potato mash gave it a pleasing twist.

I'd requested the fillet of Shropshire beef with a potato rosti, seasonal vegetables and a Madeira jus.

The fillet was served rare - almost blue, as requested - and had been well seasoned. It had a deep, sophisticated flavour that spoke of quality ingredients being treated with care and respect. The rosti was delightfully crisp and filling, the vegetables still had plenty of bite while the Madeira jus elevated the dish to a higher level. Marvellous.

After a short pause, the waitress returned to inquire whether we'd like desserts. My wife's plan had worked and she asked for the fresh ice creams, choosing scoops of butterscotch, vanilla and apple and blackberry.

I selected the iced blackcurrant parfait with creme anglais. It was an out-and-out winner. The tart, ever-so-slightly sharp blackcurrant parfait cut through the creamy, vanilla-infused custard with ease. It was light and full of seasonal flavour, providing the perfect end to our dinner.

We enjoyed a selection of handmade petite fours, fighting over who should get what, before collecting our bill. With drinks, we paid around £60 for two, which we considered excellent value.

The Cookhouse is a venue that we'll happily return to. It's not a top-flight restaurant by any means, presentation is clean rather than fancy, there's no Simon Rogan-like displays of virtuosity and little else that is extraordinary. It's a best-in-class sort of place, rather than an overall winner.

Just as we'd rate Mr Underhills as the best for fine dining; The Hundred House Inn, at Norton, as our top rated for casual dining; Dean Banner's Parkway, at Ludlow, as our favourite bistro; The Armoury, in Shrewsbury, as our favourite pub and Frank's, at Shrewsbury, as the most enjoyable cocktail bar, so we'd list The Cookhouse as our favourite spot for a no-frills quintessentially Shropshire dinner.

It's got a flexibility that few other venues can match, serving bar snacks and gourmet food in separate rooms perfectly suited to both. It's forte is the standard of its ingredients.

Week after week, reviewers like me espouse the virtues of great local suppliers and lament those eateries that don't use them. The Cookhouse does and it deserves every credit for doing so.

The meat comes from local fields, where animals have been given the chance to develop slowly and - don't laugh - happily. Salads and garnishes are, wherever possible, from local fields. Seasonality and provenance are to the fore. If only all restaurants adopted such a policy.

Of course, The Cookhouse also shines when it comes to service. It's friendly rather than overly sophisticated, rather like The Hundred House Inn, at Norton. Waitresses serve food with a smile and a giggle. There's nothing remotely po-faced or stuffy.

When we arrived at The Cookhouse we were concerned that our recent forays into gourmetville would have led to disappointment. Thankfully, they didn't. The Cookhouse's light and breezy approach to fine local food was a breath of fresh air. It passed muster on all counts and, in the fullness of time, we'll return.

ADDRESS

The Cookhouse at The Clive, Bromfield, Ludlow.

Tel: 01584 856565

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Terrine of pork and chicken livers with apple chutney and toast (£5.50); Lemon and dill cured salmon with lightly dressed leaves (£6.75)

Main courses

Pan-fried breast of Gressingham duck with a light soy sauce, pak choi and egg noodles (£15.95); Roast loin of Corvedale lamb filled with chicken and tarragon mousse, with spinach and dauphinoise potatoes (£15.95)

Desserts

Tiramisu with coffee cream (£5.75)

ATMOSPHERE

Relaxed and informal

SERVICE

Friendly rather than sophisticated. Staff are chatty and attentive

DISABLED FACILITIES

Good. The Cookhouse has been refurbished sympathetically.