The Jack Mytton, Whittington

Rating: *** Hindsight, they say, is a wonderful thing. And in hindsight, maybe going for dinner to a remote Shropshire pub with an outside bar and places for canal boats to moor on a Tuesday night in the middle of January at the height of a recession was not a good move.But maybe it was. Because when myself and my girlfriend, Laura, rolled up at the Jack Mytton Inn just outside Whittington we were one of only two covers that night, and therefore we were treated to the kind of personal service we certainly would not have received on a busier evening.

There is no doubt that the Jack Mytton - which Laura discovered via the fabulous website toptable.com - is geared towards the summer trade, but that's a shame, because it clearly has something to offer in the winter months as well.

Okay, so it wasn't exactly toasty in the bar area, but we were seated next to a radiator in the restaurant and the welcome we were given was as warm as the temperature outside was cold.

The pub can be found down a country track at Hindford, between Whittington and Ellesmere. The first thing you notice is the aforementioned bar, and I certainly intend to return if the Gods decree we are allowed a summer this year. I can imagine the place in the early afternoon sun, with canalboat holidaymakers enjoying a G&T before dinner.

But back to the winter's evening I spent there. After ordering our drinks - and the barman trying and failing to talk Laura into trying a Guinness and Tia Maria (it tastes like chocolate, apparently) - we sat with our menus taking in the decor, which includes a brief history of the colourful Shropshire character from whom the pub takes its name. As it was quiet we then decided to play one of the many traditional bar games which had been left out for the locals (and which I messed up).

Sadly, I was driving, so I could not sample some of the good looking real ales on offer, which apparently change weekly and are a mix of local brews and beers from as far afield as Cornwall.

After a brief internal debate I chose mozzarella salad followed by the intriguing lamb Henry from the "old favourites" menu. Laura opted for garlic mushrooms and duck breast topped with sesame seeds and a spicy soy sauce.

After a brief wait we were shown into the all but deserted dining room, our starters following close behind.

I have said in these pages before that I tend to use garlic mushrooms as a yardstick for good, honest pub food, and the Jack Mytton excelled. There was not a breadcrumb in sight. Instead large, fresh mushrooms were served with a creamy sauce which was not too overwhelming. My own starter was equally fresh and served with both warm and cold tomatoes and roasted peppers.

The generously portioned first course was equalled by the main. It turns out I should be perfectly aware what lamb Henry is. If you're as lacking in knowledge as I am, it's similar to lamb shanks but are from the shoulder rather than the leg. This large joint of meat was sitting in a deliciously rich red wine and rosemary gravy - the taste of the herb coming through the wine - on a bed of mash and served with fresh veg.

Any butcher will tell you lamb Henry needs to be cooked long and slow and the meat just falls off the bone. Barely had my fork touched it when that very thing happened. Delicious.

Laura's duck also came with potatoes, but she is, oddly, allergic to them. The staff offered an alternative of rice, but she decided to opt for just the veg.

Although a little tough on the outer skin where it had been seared, and a little less pink that requested, I am told the duck was, nonetheless, very tasty. It certainly seemed to go down well. Just as well as our jovial host warned her that if she didn't finish her main, there would be no pudding.

Gladly, she did and so for desert I opted for the biggest bread and butter pudding I have ever seen, which was a little charred in places but absolutely delicious. It proved too much for my slight frame and I had to concede defeat. Laura went with the Bailey's ice cream cocktail, which was as good as it sounds.

All in all a nice, if quiet, evening. I will certainly be going back. Now I'm just praying for a bit of sunshine.

Contact

The Jack Mytton, Hindford, Whittington. Tel: 01691 679861

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Black pudding and cranberry cakes (£5.60)

Seafood timbale (£5.95)

Main courses

Local pork escalope (£11.95)

Pigeon breast in red wine and port sauce (£13.95)

Desserts

Spicy apple and plum crumble (£4.60)

Raspberry cheesecake (£4.70)

ATMOSPHERE

Very quiet. But it was a Tuesday night in January

SERVICE

Efficient and friendly. The staff were very welcoming

DISABLED FACILITIES

There is access for wheelchairs