Yockleton Arms, near Shrewsbury

Star rating: **** Neil Thomas visits a former rural pub where excellent chefs now serve gastronomic delights.

If you are of a certain vintage – old enough, for instance, to remember Spandau Ballet the first time around – you may well recall The Pink Elephant.

It might sound like a racy Soho nightclub for the clinically obese – and for all I know could be one – but it was also the name of one of Shropshire's 'in' places in the 1980s, a popular venue in a delightful rural spot on the Shrewsbury to Westbury road.

Before adopting its colourful moniker it was the Yockleton Arms and it reverted to that again after its brief brush with the nomenclature of psychedelia.

For several years it was an accomplished restaurant but, sadly, in recent times could have been renamed The White Elephant since it was closed.

Until now.

The Yockleton Arms has re-opened under the management of two bright new chefs, Christian and Ali, who are brimming with talent and enthusiasm.

This is great news, striking a defiant blow against the national trend of boarding up credit crunched restaurants. Even celebrity brands have not been immune, with Antony Worrall Thompson's restaurant chain one of the more high profile casualties.

With the country in the grip of accountants, life is more efficient allbeit with the charm of a Belgian small claims court. The Dad's Army catchphrase 'There's a war on, you know' was shorthand to justify grimness, the rationing of not only food but frivolity. Think how often you hear or read the word 'recession' in a week and you could almost update the catchphrase, justifying not only receiverships and redundancies but, in a wider sense, the denial of treats. We're not yet re-using teabags in our house but, like many, we think twice about holidays, meals out, theatre trips, those little extras that lift the spirits. The nation can't come out tonight, it's broke.

Brian McBride, UK managing director of Amazon, last week acknowledged the firm was doing well because people were eating out less, staying in with cut-price DVDs. McBride admitted the firm's 24 per cent rise in earnings was relatively boring but added "boring is the new good".

The Yockleton Arms is good – very good – and not in any sense boring, so that nails that myth.

My first mouthful of flaky batter and the succulent monkfish it encased was as powerful an imperative for leaving the television behind as I've eaten in a long time; the silky softness of the fish caressing the palate and giving way to a meaty texture that satisfied some deeply primeval carnivorous need.

My dining companions, wife Vanessa and her parents John and Bet, raved over their medium rare steaks, hung for 21 days and bursting with flavour. They came with a peppery crisp watercress salad and a bowl of crispy, large hand-cut chips.

All our courses were excellent, though. My smoked haddock fishcake starter was meaty and given a delightfully spicy kick by a light curry dipping sauce. Vanessa's smoked salmon was, she said, the best she had tasted in ages. It was lightly smoked, generously carved and richly succulent. The fennel slaw and sourdough bread were a welcome fresh and tasty twist to the usual brown bread and salad garnish. John loved his chicken liver paté with port and onion chutney.

My dessert, Chocoholics Anonymous, was a selection of chocolate desserts with white and dark truffles, ice-cream and dipped strawberry. If you are a chocolate fan you'll love it.

John gave a big thumbs up to the date and walnut pudding with toffee sauce and brown bread ice-cream.

The chefs clearly know what they are about. Estonian Ali came to this country around 10 years ago, trained under the aforementioned Antony Worrall Thompson and has won awards for her cooking. She was, however, maitre d' on the evening we visited while Christian was head chef, working considerable magic in the kitchen. The service was excellent – eager, friendly and attentive.

The restaurant's decor is easy on the eye, the background songs nostalgic and melodic and there were enough other diners to ensure a stimulating atmosphere. Sharing good food in pleasant surroundings with excellent company remains one of life's civilised treasures. So bless Christian and Ali for swimming against the economic tide and pursuing their dream at the Yockleton Arms. For their talent, enthusiasm and sheer optimism they deserve to succeed. Whether they do or not is up to us, the customers. It's lovely, so go there.

I know we've books to balance and it will take years and we can't all squeeze shut our eyes, put our fingers in our ears, hum loudly and hope it goes away. Just so long as we don't collectively end up like Oscar Wilde's cycnic, knowing the price of everything and the value of nothing.

Menu sample

Starters

Pan-fried halloumi and roasted vine tomato salad (£5.50)

Pea and ham soup (£3.95)

Main courses

Rack of lamb, pea puree, mash, caramelised shallots (£14.95)

Chicken and mushroom pie with new potatoes, green beans and tender stem broccoli (£9.95)

Desserts

Burnt cream with Shrewsbury biscuits(£5.50)

Rhubarb crumble with vanilla ice-cream (£5.25)

ATMOSPHERE

Convivial and civilised

SERVICE

Attentive, helpful, friendly, efficient

DISABLED FACILITIES

Easy access and space to move

Contact

The Yockleton Arms, near Shrewsbury. Telephone 01743 821491