The Crown, Clunton

Reviewer's rating ****

The Crown at Clunton has seen some interesting and perhaps turbulent times.

Some years ago it was bought by a group of locals after it was threatened with closure (and that was before things got really bad!) who tried to keep it going.

We won't go into all of the details but suffice to say a visit I made five years ago left me wondering how it could survive and a colleague who went a little over 18 months ago was less than impressed.

Not the sort of place you could recommend, at all. But not now. It has been given a new lease of life by Della and Andrew Peers who took over last June.

It has a great 'pub' bar and a restaurant that serves fantastic food - and I don't use that term lightly. My main course was one of the best I have had for some time.

Perhaps the comment of another diner eating there at the same time sums it up. She described it as a hidden gem, well it shouldn't be for much longer.

Back to the bar and allow me to climb on my pet hobbyhorse. There is no doubt we are in a decline as far as decent village pubs go. They either survive by going gastro or fall by the wayside and become a home. And that's such a pity.

There's nothng better than a proper bar, with (in winter) a roaring fire, dogs and locals chewing the cud.

We visited early on Monday evening and found a warm welcome and plenty of locals, a game of dominoes in progress and families eating.

Great, I thought.

We sat down with a couple of drinks and the menus. Difficult chioces had to be made but eventually we ordered and shortly afterwards went through to the dining room, which I just didn't recognise from my previous visit. Clean, tidy and well decorated, what a change.

I went for smoked mackerel pate (£3.95) to start and Neil had rack of pork spare ribs (£3.95).

The pate was light and came with a substantial salad, lemon sour cream and olive bread. Delicious and the sort of portion size that would do you for lunch.

The ribs had a spicy barbecue sauce and again came with a good fresh salad.

So far so good.

Next I had pork fillet (£11.99) which was served pan fried with a sage and cream sauce and garnished with apricots. If I were in charge of portion control it would havebeen half the size! Succulent meat which was not overwhelmed by the light sauce.

Neil chose a 10oz grilled gammon steak (£9.25) which arrived with a fried egg and fresh pineapple - yes, fresh pineapple. A hefty slice which was wasted on the man who views any vegetables and fruit with suspicion.

Alongside we had a dish of roast and minted new potatoes and a selection of vegetables including cauliflower cheese, suateed leeks and carrots.

Joy, crisp vegetables, not overcooked.

We were really full and I asked the landlady if I could take my leftovers home. Well why waste such delicious food?

It provided a nice meal when I got home from work the following day. In fact describing what I couldn't manage as leftovers is a bit of a misnomer, they were the size of a healthy meal.

The emphasis of chef Andrew's food is that it is cooked to order using local meats and produce. And it shows in the quality.

With piggy eyes we had to try a homemade pudding, I really had to see what they could come up with for just £3.95.

A steal at the price.

Neil had hot sticky toffee pudding with warm butterscotch sauce, one of his favourites, and one which brought sighs of delight.

I had Bournville chocolate torte, creamy chocolate bound together with light cream with amaretto biscuits. Not as heavy as it sounds and for choccie lovers, perfect.

The bar has the usual range of ales, lagers and other drinks and some amazing value wine.

The house red is Peaks View Merlot and a 75ml glass is £2.60 while a bottle is £10. The wine list isn't extensive but then I wouldn't expect it to be in a country pub in the Clun valley. What they have is well thought-out and well priced.

The restaurant is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 6.30 to 8.30pm (and on Bank Holiday Mondays, and for Sunday lunch between 12 and 2.30pm. Bar snacks are served Friday and Saturday beteen 12 and 2.30pm.

Take a trip up the wonderful Clun valley and try it.

By Sharon Walters

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Home-made soup of the day with warm bread roll (£3.25); feta and olive salad in a basil vinaigrette (£3.95)

Main courses

Poached salmon steak with asparagus sauce served on a bed of smoked salmon and mustard mash (£11.99); 8oz sirloin steak with tomato and mushrooms (£12.50)

Desserts

Apple pie, apples encased in sugar pastry (£3.95); profiteroles with fresh cream and warm chocolate sauce (£3.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Busy bar and quieter restaurant

SERVICE

Pleasant and helpful

DISABLED FACILITIES

No disabled facilities

Contact: The Crown, at Clunton, Tel: 01588 660265