Etzio, Whitchurch

Dave Morris samples the delights on offer at an Anglo-Italian bistro in north Shropshire.

A delightful mini-tour of Shropshire ended with an enjoyable meal in the company of music legend Bob Dylan.

He looks out from a number of photographs on the walls of Anglo-Italian bistro, Etzio, at the top of High Street, Whitchurch.

It turns out that Etzio's owner Martin Hayward is a big fan.

Bob was just over my shoulder, looking thoughtful in his picture which carried the title of his world famous anthem "The Times They Are a-Changin".

Earlier Kath and I had spent much of the day in the south of the county, delighting in visits to Much Wenlock, Cleobury Mortimer and Church Stretton. It was then home for a quick change before heading for north Shropshire.

We felt that a good meal would be the perfect ending to our tour.

And we were not disappointed.

Martin started Etzio in April 2005 with the aim of providing a relaxed eating venue with "atmosphere" and combining some casual Italian dishes (pizza, pasta, risotto) with some traditional English ones such as steak, chicken, and duck.

Although Etzio's is not, and doesn't want to be, an out-and-out Italian, its chef Claudio Murru is from Rome.

As for Martin, prior to Etzio he owned The Feathers at Brockton, near Much Wenlock, for 14 years.

Etzio's was busy and I was thankful that I had pre-booked our table.

For starters I chose a warm salad of black pudding, mushrooms and crispy bacon (£5.95) while Kath went for bruschetta - chopped fresh tomato, olives and basil oil on garlic toast (£3.75).

This was one the best black pudding starters that I've had in a long time. I perhaps should have savoured it more but I was so hungry and it tasted so very good.

Kath was equally pleased with the bruschetta and I was kindly given a slice. Such a simple dish and yet so delicious.

I really do like Mediterranean-style foods and had come close to ordering Etzio tapas, a selection of house patŽ, marinaded olives, feta cheese, crayfish with garlic mayo dip and crusty bread (£7.95). Perhaps another time!

Our plates were taken away by a cheerful, efficient and obliging young waiter, and we eagerly awaited our main courses.

I had decided on spinach and goat's cheese pasta - tortiglioni pasta tubes, simmered in a rich creamy sauce (£9.75).

Again it was a good choice and I tried my best to slow down. The goat's cheese - I am a fairly recent convert to it - gave the dish a wonderful tangy flavour.

Often nowadays I tend to go for a non-meat dish (for no particular reason) but I have no doubts that I would have equally enjoyed the rib-eye steak and fries (£16.95), served plain or with peppercorn sauce.

Also tempting was the garlic-roasted free-range chicken breast on vegetable, potato, chorizo and bacon cassoulet (£12.95).

Going back to fries, I ordered a portion and thought they complemented the pasta very well indeed. What a philistine!

But Kath wasn't slow in taking her fair share of them to go with her main course, even though it happened to be served with a bowl of tasty mixed vegetables.

She went for fillet of smoked haddock, baked with spinach, cream and white wine (£12.95).

It was delightfully presented and, after a couple of mouthfuls, Kath said she was pleased with her choice. However, it was a bit on the salty side, and salt is something quite rare in our diet. A couple of glasses of water went down well.

We still felt we had room for dessert though we told our waiter that we would delay for a while, and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of the establishment. By now every table was taken.

Kath was pleased with her choice of cinnamon apple crumble with ice cream (£4.75) and I was eventually defeated by a generous platter of dolcelatte and mature cheddar with water biscuits.

We very much enjoyed our visit to Etzio's, not only the food but also the busy, yet relaxed atmosphere. I have no doubt that this bistro, overlooked by the town's large parish church, is a favourite with many, and I'm sure we will return to Bob's company some day.

Just for the record (no pun intended), his album "The Times They Are a-Changin" was released in early 1964. Where do the years go?

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Shell on, king prawns in garlic butter (£6.95)

Main courses

Marinaded duckling breast with wine, herbs, garlic and soy sauce (£13.95)

Desserts

Chocolate mousse cake with chantilly cream (£4.75)

ATMOSPHERE

Relaxed and welcoming

SERVICE

Excellent young waiter, friendly and obliging

DISABLED FACILITIES

No problems with access and staff are helpful

Contact

Etzio, High Street, Whitchurch. Tel: 01948 662248