Hawkstone Park Hotel

Star rating: **** James Shaw and his wife head somewhere special for their wedding anniversary.

Star rating: **** James Shaw and his wife head somewhere special for their wedding anniversary.

In terms of location, there are few better places to eat in Shropshire than Hawkstone Park.

Enveloped within acres of rolling parkland and of course the famous follies, it enjoys an enviable advantage.

But the the real test of a restaurant, naturally enough, is in the food, service and atmosphere – would it compare well to such spectacular surroundings?

Having eaten at Hawkstone during our courtship, Claire and I decided it would be the perfect location to celebrate our second wedding anniversary.

Our last visit, in 2004, attracted a five-star rating and deservedly so – the service was immaculate, as was the food.

But for our latest excursion, the experience was not quite so impressive.

Let me explain.

I may be getting a little picky in my old age, but it was one minor point that made a difference on this occasion.

When we arrived our table was so close to the next one along, that we felt unable to talk freely.

Not that we were being listened to, of course, but it was unnerving to hear our neighbours' conversation without even trying.

The rest of the restaurant was virtually deserted, so it was not as if our tables couldn't have been more widely spread out.

I suppose the location of our tables made the evening more efficient in terms of service, but for me, it made a negative difference.

To begin our meals, I chose the buffalo chicken wings, while Claire went for the leek and potato soup.

The problem I have with starters is that if you choose a great one, there is always a yearning for more.

That was very much the case with my chicken wings – they were a great way to start my meal, but there just wasn't enough of them.

Inevitably, they were a little greasy, but not too much that they spoiled my enjoyment.

Claire was presented with a steaming bowl of soup that was pleasantly mild and, indeed, smooth.

The flavour of the leeks, thankfully, was not too strong as to dominate Claire's taste buds for the rest of the meal.

A waitress soon appeared to offer Claire chunks of warm, crusty bread to soak up the remaining drops of soup.

Perhaps, then, our initial experience of the atmosphere (remember those tables) would be rectified by the food and service.

Speed was certainly a factor and the staff were very efficient in making sure our table was cleared of plates within moments of finishing each course.

But the main course, naturally enough, would provide the biggest test.

I chose the duck breast, while Claire plumped for the 8oz rump steak.

My duck came with the usual vegetables and other accompaniments. The meat was tender and virtually free of grease.

The presentation, as you would expect, was spot on, with the meat laid out in immaculate rows.

On the other side of the table, Claire's steak was receiving similar compliments.

Like my duck, the meat was tender and free of grease or any trace of fat.

To be honest, it was a fair size for an 8oz steak, but if mistakes were made in the kitchen, we were not prepared to complain!

Both courses were, in fact, perfectly judged in terms of size and set us up nicely for our desserts.

To finish the evening, I chose the duo of sweets, while for Claire, it was the apple crumble.

After such spectacular starters and main courses, the desserts did not receive nearly enough attention.

My duo of sweets were, quite simply, a pair of delicious mouthfuls that needed to be just a little bit bigger.

Claire's apple crumble was a definite improvement on anything made at home, with the delicious addition of hazelnuts into the topping.

Along with a lovely bottle of Hardy's rosé and a couple of other drinks, the bill came to just over £60 – not bad for a night that marked two years since our wedding.

But the low point of the night had nothing to do with the restaurant itself.

It was my fault.

Why, on such a big occasion, and at a lovely country hotel, would I not book a room for the evening?

I can't say – but it's not a mistake I will be making again!

MENU SAMPLE

A £21 for three courses menu includes:

Starters

Stir-fried tiger prawns

Mediterranean starter selection

Main courses

Rack of lamb with herb crust

Fillets of mullet