The West Arms, Llanarmon

Reviewer's rating ***

On the way to the West Arms for dinner, I had this nagging feeling that writing a restaurant review would be difficult.

And so it proved to be.

It could be that I'm really just a greedy philistine and don't appreciate fine dining.

Maybe at just over £84 (including drinks) our meal represented excellent value for money.

I remember being told many years ago that you should always leave the dinner table still feeling hungry. And I certainly did!

This was our second visit in recent weeks to a restaurant in the lovely Ceiriog Valley near Oswestry.

Our expectations were high as the West Arms has a first-rate reputation. Indeed, a couple of people who knew we were heading there seemed quite envious.

The West Arms in the picturesque village of Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog in the foothills of the Berwyn Mountains has an award-winning chef and the produce it uses is said to be fresh, local and prepared to the highest standards.

It holds an AA four-star Highly Commended rating, the restaurant has been awarded two AA rosettes, there have been entries in the Good Food Guide and Which? Magazine, not forgetting three RAC dining awards and a recommendation in the prestigious Michelin Guide.

And yet I left disappointed.

I looked at my main course and dessert, and they were wonderful pictures on a plate. I didn't know whether I should frame or eat them. Again this could well be a personal thing. Other diners appeared to be happy enough.

What's more they are all reasonably priced. The bar meal being brought to another couple, as we waited to be taken through to the restaurant, looked good.

As we relaxed and discussed what to have for dinner we were brought some tasty hors d'oeuvre, including olives.

Choices made, Kath decided on a starter of quenelles of artichoke mousse, marinated Greek feta with a salad of rocket and toasted hazelnuts dressed in a strawberry vinaigrette.

She was delighted, not only with the presentation but with the taste too.

I went for the smooth chicken liver parfait served with mixed leaves and Melba toast, accompanied with a homemade chutney.

And at this stage there were no complaints from me. It was excellent and our expectations were rising. The homemade bread rolls were delicious too.

For her main course, Kath chose an assiette of fish with a trio of sauces. These were three miniature fish dishes. There wasn't a great lot on the plate, but again the presentation and taste were both top notch.

I went for rack of Welsh lamb with dauphinoise potato and tomato, basil and green bean comfit, drizzled in a redcurrant jus.

Lamb is one of my big favourites and when our waitress brought my plate, covered with a lid, I could hardly contain my excitement.

With a flourish the lid was removed - and I felt incredibly disappointed. Four little chop-like pieces of lamb. Four, not very big mouthfuls. And as lovely as each mouthful was, it just didn't hit the mark for me.

The veg was beautifully presented but there was so very little of it.

For dessert Kath decided on white chocolate and mango cheesecake. It was, she said, very good. I selected a strawberry and white chocolate tart. And again I was disappointed with the portion.

I must admit that the fable of the emperor's new clothes did flash through my mind at this point.

We finished our meal with coffee, which we enjoyed in the lounge area by a welcoming fire.

Overall our visit to the West Arms was a pleasant experience, and we would go back.

But next time it will be for a bar meal.

By Dave Morris

MENU SAMPLE

Two courses are priced at £27.95 and three courses at £32.90, plus a 10 per cent service charge.

Starters

Tian of white crab meat and crayfish tails on a watercress and apple salad.

Main courses

Medallions of pork tenderlion in an elderberry and port wine sauce.

Desserts

Classic creme caramel with rum-steeped sultanas.

ATMOSPHERE

Relaxed, but quite formal in the restaurant.

SERVICE

Excellent. Could not be faulted.

DISABLED FACILITIES

No great problems for the disabled.

CONTACT

The West Arms, Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog. Telephone (01691) 600665.