The Shabab, Wem

Reviewer's rating **** Andy Richardson is bowled over by the exotics flavours of authentic Asian cuisine.

For six inglorious months, I drank and ate like a demon, writes Andy Richardson.

Three or four evenings a week, I'd head into a working town, many miles from Shropshire, in the borough where I was born.

With an older brother and two friends in tow, we'd drink copiously in good pubs before repairing for a balti.

The balti houses - never restaurants - that we visited were bliss. Food was unpretentious, cheap as chips and deliciously tasty.

Main courses were served in huge, scolding gosht dishes and as the clock passed 11pm we feasted on our late-night, alcohol-sating bowls of savoury, spicy deliciousness.

The Shabab, at Wem, took me back to those halcyon days. It was opened 16 years ago and has been serving high quality baltis since.

It's won a host of awards, including one for being Shropshire's best balti house. In December, it won an award from the Best Food Guide for serving the most authentic Indian and Asian cuisine, bringing delight to its long-standing owner, Jay Khan, and his family.

So, once the snow had cleared, my wife and I hot-footed it to north Shropshire to find out what all the fuss was about.

Like the balti houses of my youth, it's unpretentious and unfussy. The decor could politely be described as being restrained while the tables are packed like crowd surfers at a Green Day gig.

The cutlery, glassware and tables are reasonably down at heel. Michelin inspectors would probably peer through the windows and decide not to enter. Diners choose between drinks from the bar and their own supplies of booze. During our visit, there were plenty of popping brought-in corks, as well as supplies of exotic lager served from the bar.

The food, however, was something else. Rich, spicy, fragrant, exotic, delicate and well-balanced; the chef displayed a keen understanding of spices and herbs and showed a lightness of touch. It was exquisite.

For me, eating out isn't just part of my profession. It's where my disposable income goes - if there's any left at the end of the month.

Last year, my wife and I beat a path to London to enjoy Michelin-style Asian cuisine at Quillon, one of the capital's most highly rated south Indian eateries. The food at Shabab surpassed the offerings we received during our dinner from the more illustrious London eaterie. It was that good.

My wife started with an onion bhaji served with salad and raita. The bhaji was light and crisp, seasoned beautifully and full of sweet and savoury flavour. I tried to steal a corner by moving my fork towards it, only to be rebuffed.

I, meanwhile, opted for the chicken chaat. It was decadently indulgent and will last long in the memory. The savoury, spicy chicken was served with a salad garnish and wrapped inside a deep fried roti. Dieters should avoid it at all cost. But I loved every bite.

My wife opted for barbecued prawns for her main course. That came with a salad garnish and was a winning combination of plump, juicy prawns that had been artfully cooked and dressed in a delightful sauce.

My chicken tikka passanda, meanwhile, was a treat. It was nutty, creamy, fragrant and more-ish. The chicken was still tender and moist, the accompanying mushroom pilau rice was wonderfully savoury while a tear-and-share naan bread was as plumped-up and puffy as a duck down pillow.

A jar of sweet lassi was a bargain at a couple of quid and, having been outdone by the giant portion, the remaining balti and rice was placed separately into two containers, for me to enjoy later at home as a takeaway.

The Shabab is deserving of its multiple awards. It's a class act that is ridiculously good value - our blow-out dinner, with drinks, came in at around £35. The food is subtle and skillfully prepared, the service is exceedingly good and the low-key, no frills dining room makes for a convivial atmosphere.

Will I be returning? Like a shot. I think I've just found my new favourite curry house.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Onion bhaji (£2), Masala fish (£3.25)

Main courses

Special mixed balti (£7.25), Special keema balti (£7.25) (both of the above are served with free rice or naan bread)

Sides

Saag Paneer (£2.95), Tarka Daal (£1.75)

Desserts

Kulfi (£1.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Bustling, vibrant and fun. It's a great 'neighbourhood' restaurant.

SERVICE

First rate. Staff listen to customers attentively and work with speed.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Disabled toilet is available

Address: Shabab Balti Centre, 62 High Street, Wem, SY4 5DW Tel: 01939 234333.