Haughton Hall, Shifnal

Reviewer's rating: **** Visiting Shifnal on a writing assignment a number of years ago, I drove past the entrance to Haughton Hall and was intrigued as to what lay at the end of that smart tree-lined drive.

So imagine my delight last Friday night to find myself and my partner Simon tootling up it in Simon's car to dine there after it was suggested to us.

And Haughton Hall did not disappoint. A one-time grand country mansion, its impressive white-painted facade was lit up against the dark winter's night sky.

The hall was built in 1781 by Sir Humphrey Biggs, and was one of the leading private houses in Shropshire for 200 years. A listed building, it was once a private girls' school and a Dr Barnardo's home, but had been empty for about nine years before Jim Dunkley it in 1996 and turned it into a hotel and leisure centre.

Going through the original front door, we found ourselves in an empty reception. However a cheery sign told to pick up the phone and dial a number for assistance. A smiling member of staff soon arrived to show us through to the panelled bar, which was very pleasant, with clusters of Chesterfield sofas and wing chairs, but which again, was empty.

I had thought there would have been more people dining, but then I suppose most people are cutting back after Christmas. Checking out the menu over a pint of Stella Artois and a glass of Shiraz, we thought it was comprehensive, with good choices. However the fact that we felt we needed to order extra side dishes would make our experience more expensive.

The set dinner menu costs £19.95 per person for two courses or £24.95 for three; but as we also ordered three sides at £3.95 each (two lots of hand-cut chips and some seasonal vegetables to share), this added another £11.85 to the food bill.

The restaurant was so quiet that there were just two sets of diners, including us. The hotel's main "Oliver's restaurant" was laid out for a wedding reception the next day, so we were shown through to our table in a pleasant anteroom just off it, where the other couple were already enjoying their meal.

For starters I had gone for pork and sage terrine with toasted ciabatta and apple and cider compote. Simon chose pan-fried mackerel fillet coated in a sun-dried tomato crust, finished with a ratatouille.

As I'm a fish lover, for my main course I couldn't resist ordering steamed turbot, clams, mussels and spinach cream sauce with saffron potatoes.

And, having endured being ribbed by friends (who are also of course readers) - who accused him of always ordering steak - Simon decided on roasted duck breast coated in honey and sesame seed on a bed of noodles and vegetable ribbons.

We were served a choice of warm bread rolls with butter before our first course arrived. Simon's starter looked particularly colourful. He said his mackerel was "really very good". "It was tasty and I thoroughly enjoyed it," he said.ÊI wasn't so impressed with my starter, although I don't think there was much wrong with it, it just wasn't to my taste. The terrine was obviously home-made and came with cute slices of toasted ciabatta, and a grouping of softened apple. Unfortunately I found it a bit bland. I like really savoury food and it just didn't do much for me. It was better when paired with the apple and cider compote and Simon tried it and said there was nothing wrong with it.

Simon also enjoyed his main course. He said it was "a good combination and something different - other than steak!"

I struck pure gold with my main course. My dish featured an absolutely wonderful, flavour-filled yet delicate, spinach cream sauce (with just flecks of spinach), a generous slice of perfectly steamed turbot laying on top of a delicious concoction of properly cut, shaped saffron potatoes, tasty clams in their shells and full, fat and absolutely delicious mussels already free from theirs.

Our sides went well with both dishes. The chips were full and fat, nice and brown on the outside and soft and white in the middle. The vegetables of carrots, broccoli and cauliflower were not overcooked.

For our third course I treated myself to cheese (Stilton, Cheddar and Brie) and biscuits which came with celery and grapes. Lovely. Simon reverted to type and had sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and vanilla ice-cream. He said this was very hot and tasty. We ended our meal with a latte macchiato (£1.95).

As we were about to leave, my nosey-side re-surfaced as I poked my head round the door of Oliver's restaurant - which looked really nice. It was a pity we hadn't been able to eat in there, but we'd still had great food. I think Haughton Hall is the ideal place to dine to celebrate a special occasion.

Contact

Haughton Hall, Haughton Lane, Shifnal TF11 8HG

Tel: 01952 468300

MENU SAMPLE

2 course dinner £19.95; 3 course dinner £24.95

STARTERS

Creamed cauliflower and Stilton soup finished with truffle oil and milled black pepper; crayfish and crab tart with chive mayonnaise and rocket leaves

MAIN COURSES

Jerk seasoned slow roast belly pork with coriander steamed rice and chilli pak choi

Slow braised rump steak with creamy dauphinoise potatoes, savoury cabbage, smoked bacon and pine nuts

DESSERTS

Steamed chocolate sponge pudding with a dark chocolate custard

Blackcurrant Bakewell tart served warm with poached blackberries

ATMOSPHERE

An extremely quiet evening

SERVICE

Excellent. Polite, friendly and efficient.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Disabled toilet facilities