The White Horse Inn, Clun

The White Horse at Clun is surely everyone's idea of a real pub. It is full of local people who all seem to know each other and be enjoying themselves.

There is a real, convivial community feel about it. If you aren't a local, they draw you into their conversation anyway, and even sometimes buy you a drink.

They have a big selection of local real ales, lagers and ciders, and a sizable menu of good, home-cooked food served at lunchtimes and in the evenings every day in the dining room or in the bar.

The pub is right in the centre of a lovely small town in the beautiful south Shropshire hills. It offers bed-and-breakfast accommodation, is much loved by ramblers, and even welcomes well-behaved dogs in the bar. They even provide dog bowls!

On sunny days, the secluded beer garden behind the pub is just the ticket. Most weeks they have a music night in the bar, with guest blues or rock musicians. During the Spring Bank Holiday, they host a four-day Booze 'n' Blues festival and in October they are one of seven pubs that take part in the popular Clun Valley Beer Festival. What more can you ask from a local?

But if you are not a local, is the food worth the trip? The answer is a resounding yes. The menu is surprisingly extensive, and you'll probably be spoilt for choice. The food is all home-made, using good-quality fresh ingredients, most of them from local sources.

It's not cordon bleu, nor does it pretend to be. But as pub food goes, it's tip top. As with most pub menus, the choices for vegetarians are not huge, but the White Horse has as good a selection as most, offering several starters and mains, and they are tasty and interesting.

I chose sumptuous deep-fried brie with cranberry sauce as a starter, which came with a crisp salad. My husband enjoyed the salmon fishcakes with lemon mayonnaise, which also arrived with a fresh salad. There was just enough of each and they were really delicious.

For my main I decided on a home-made feta, olive and tomato tart which was served with salad and wonderful tasty brown, home-made bread. The tart was flavoursome but just a touch dry; it didn't stop me clearing my plate, though.

My husband was tempted by the liver and bacon casserole that was one of the night's specials, but after much thought he went for the lamb cutlets with new potatoes and vegetables.

He said he was glad he did, because the cutlets were tender and slightly pink, quite delicious and the new potatoes, peas and carrots were cooked to perfection. The dish was accompanied by a rich gravy.

Again the portions were just right, satisfying without being too daunting. They left us with just enough room for dessert.

I am addicted to cheese, so naturally opted for the cheese board. Diners are invited to choose their favourite three cheeses from a list of those on offer, and I chose Stilton, Tintern and brie. I was served a substantial chunk of each, and a selection of biscuits, and thoroughly enjoyed them.

My husband is as keen on bread and butter pudding as I am on cheese, so he was delighted to find it on the menu. It varies a lot from restaurant to restaurant, from the scrumptious to the mediocre, and he thought the White Horse version particularly good, succulent and creamy with crispy bits. Offered a choice of cream, ice-cream or custard, he opted for the custard, and said it was a great dessert.

I had an excellent Merlot with my meal, and my husband, who had volunteered to drive, restricted himself to a glass of Stella Artois.

Landlord, Jack Limond is rightly proud of his cellar, and keeps his local real ales to the highest standard. Up to eight real ales and ciders are served. He holds a Cask Marque and the White Horse Inn has been listed in the Camra Good Beer Guide continually from 2002 to 2009. The regulars include Wye Valley, Butty Bach, Hobson's Bitter and Mild, Three Tuns XXX, Salopian, Shropshire Gold, Westons First Quality Cider and Westons Country Perry.

The bar was already pretty full when we arrived in the evening, and they were busy, but we were approached immediately, given a very warm welcome and asked if we'd like to have our first drinks in the bar or at our table. The service was efficient, friendly and attentive. It would be hard to find fault with the menu choice, the quality and quantity of the food, or the service. Full marks all round.

It would also be hard to quibble about the bill: an extremely reasonable £35 for a three-course meal for two with drinks. You can see why the place is popular.

Menu sample

Starters

Arden patŽ with plums and brandy (£3.50); breaded brie with salad and

cranberry sauce (£3.95)

Mains

Lamb cutlets with new potatoes and vegetables (£8.50); home-made feta, olive and tomato tart with salad and bread (£6.75); breaded wholetail scampi, chips, peas and tartare sauce (£6.95)

Desserts

Bread and butter pudding (£3.95); home-made apple charlotte (£3.95)

Atmosphere

Lively, friendly and cosy

Service

Faultless

Disabled facilities

No special provision for wheelchair users but staff are always willing to help

Contact

The White Horse Inn, The Square, Clun, Shropshire SY7 8JA

Tel: 01588 640305