Poppy's, Shrewsbury

Reviewer's rating ***

Russell Roberts says Michael Winner may not like it but Poppy's scores well with the locals.

It may not be a favourite haunt of celebrity food critic Michael Winner but Poppy's Tea Room & Restaurant is clearly still very popular among the people of Shrewsbury.

"The restaurant is very good for the diet because you can't eat anything," the 74-year-old former film director remarked in a recent review carried in the Sunday Times.

Despite recognising the friendliness of the business's owner Geoff Meredith, Mr Winner claimed the standard of food was poor.

Mr Winner, a film director who is probably best known for his irritating insurance adverts on TV, also commented in the review that one of his entourage was so disappointed with their meal that they were prepared to leave to go and buy a chocolate bar.

So following the slating in the national paper, myself and fellow reporter David Seadon, from the Shrewsbury Chronicle, decided to give the restaurant our own going over one weekday lunchtime.

But far from a down-on-his luck restaurateur who would be forgiven for wondering whether it was time to chuck in the towel following an acid tongued review in a national paper, we found a man whose primary concern was where to find a table for what appeared to be a never-ending conveyor belt of hungry diners.

The building dates back to 1617 and the owners thrive on its olde worlde charm with music from a bygone era playing softly in the background.

After looking through the menu and the generous specials board we set about choosing a starter.

Despite being more of a place for a cup of coffee and a light bite, the menu still had offerings for those with a slightly bigger lunchtime appetite.

The restaurant is run by friendly, attentive staff including Mr Meredith's wife Anne, who co-owns the business with her husband.

When asked what flavour soups were available she rattled off a list of equally tempting combinations, available with white bread, granary bread or a half size organic baguette.

I decided to plump for the appetising leek and courgette soup while David chose the broccoli and stilton soup.

They were both well presented in large bowls and accompanied with fresh bread, although we both felt the butter was too hard and very difficult to spread.

David described it as a "generous helping of creamy, full bodied soup which really hit the spot". Mine too was equally as tasty although it was slightly salty.

In truth the soup in itself was probably filling enough but we decided it only fair that we judge the restaurant over three courses.

Poppy's offers a great flexibility of food throughout the day and although we were well into the afternoon David was determined to go for the all day full English breakfast.

It was the works with two rashers of bacon, a fried egg, sausage, tomato, mushroom, beans, fried potatoes and black pudding.

While he said it did nothing for his cholesterol levels, David remarked that it was well cooked and the perfect dish if you have not eaten all day.

With my appetite waning following a generous starter, I opted for the lighter option of a toasted organic panini with honey roast ham, red onion and chutney.

Michael Winner said his assistant and hairdresser Dinah had encountered a panini which was hard when they paid a visit to Poppy's, but fortunately I found that mine was fresh and not at all difficult to cut into.

It even bore the ricepaper mark to prove it was organic.

The ham was thick and delicious and the accompanying salad was fresh, although I found the chutney too overpowering.

Having enjoyed the starter and main course there was only one more dish left to try and we both hoped the desserts were not going to let the restaurant down at the final hurdle.

Despite feeling the effects of the substantial main course, David ordered a Poppy Sundae - a selection of three ice-creams (strawberry, chocolate and vanilla), whipped cream, marshmallows, pineapple, cherries, grapes and apples.

He said it was a nice, refreshing end to a good-value meal with particular praise for the fruit which he said was extremely tasty and clearly prepared from fresh, not out of a tin.

With Shrove Tuesday just a day earlier, I decided to go for the specials sweet of two pancakes which I asked to be served with lemon and sugar. They were soft and delicious and worth every penny of the £1.50.

Overall the restaurant serves good home cooked food. It doesn't offer the same standard of Michelin-starred food Mr Winner may be more accustomed to, but neither does it pretend to.

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Soup of the day with bread (£3.50)

Salad platter (£6.50)

MAIN COURSES

Beef or vegetable lasagne served with salad and garlic bread (£6.85)

Poached salmon in a prawn and cream sauce with a jacket potato and side salad or sauteed potatoes and veg of the day (£7.99)

DESSERTS

Sherry trifle with cream (£3)

Meringue nest with seasonal fruit and cream or clotted cream (£2.80)

ATMOSPHERE

Relaxed and cosy in a historic old world setting

SERVICE

Prompt, friendly and attentive.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Access via ramp. There is an outdoor disabled toilet.

Contact

Poppy's, 8 Milk Street, Shrewsbury, SY1 1SZ

Telephone (01743) 272709.