Barkworth's Seafoods, Shrewsbury

Star rating: **** SHARON WALTERS takes a trip down memory lane and finds a real cracker in the market.

Well, here's a little question for you foodies – where do you think serves probably the best seafood in Shropshire?

Some Michelin-starred, linen, silver and cut glass-embellished restaurant? Where men in immaculate suits flit around and you have to take out a second mortgage to pay for tiny quantities set on vast plates making the portion look like a very small island in the Pacific?

The answer is no. It is served in Shrewsbury's indoor market.

This isn't a place I sought out and I am so glad I discovered it. Last Saturday I was shopping in Shrewsbury and paid a nostalgic visit to the Market Hall where my late father-in-law used to sell his own homegrown poultry every Saturday for many years.

Fancying a snack before settling myself in front of the TV to watch the rugby (don't even think of the score!) I half-remembered a story about the fish stall opening up an eating area and popped along.

There are a couple of tables set up opposite the stall with a set menu and a specials board. The food is cooked on a contact griddle and you can watch as chef and owner Ian Cornall prepares the dishes.

Neil has a passion for crab and decided on a sandwich as his 'snack'. The bread was packed with moist Newlyn crab meat and made a meal in itself. With a glass of wine, that was £5.95.

I had a Seafood Gondola, it looked likeanice light bite of different fish of the day. Wrong! For £7.95, also with a glass of wine, I had a positive sea liner of food.

Served on a bed of salad, including delicious baby beetroot leaves, I had four types of prawn (including tiny sweet brown shrimps of the sort I used to enjoy at the seaside as a child), plus crab meat, baby squid and octopus with fragrant aioli.

This came with unbelievably good ciabatta, halved and then spread with olive oil, garlic and chilli before being griddled and served with balsamic syrup. This is something I will certainly be doing at home.

All dishes include a mixture of bread, salad or griddled vegetables and a glass of wine.

Two couples sat alongside us as we ate and they were equally as impressed. One couple put leftover food in a container to take home and I couldn't bear to leave my considerable leftovers – so I asked for a bag.

The charming waitress took the plate away and back came a neat box full of my seafood and salad. As I rather quietly watched the rugby I snacked my way through it. Better than salty snacks!

Barkworths Seafoods has more than 80 years of heritage and last year the current man in charge, Ian Cornall, decided to open up the bar to complement what is arguably the most renowned fishmonger in Shropshire.

Ian has been at the rudder of the fishmongery for the past 12 years: "We wanted to give shoppers a chance to share our appreciation for fish, seafood and cookery and the Seafood Bar provides the perfect opportunity for us to do so."

I gave the fish stall a close inspection and boughtakilo of mixed fish to make a fish pie, perfect for a freezer meal when friends call round.I had chunks (not tail ends) of several types including cod, salmon and smoked haddock. Excellent quality. If only I lived closer to Shrewsbury . . .

Contact:

Barkworths Seafoods, Market Hall, Bellstone, Shrewsbury SY1 1HX Tel: 01743 352138

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