Albright Hussey, Shrewsbury

Picking fault with Albright Hussey would be as easy as shooting fish in a barrel,

.

The hotel dates back to 1524 and some of its fittings look like they haven't been changed. The dining room carpet is more retirement home than chichi restaurant and the light fittings look like they were installed when Henry VIII was still on the throne.

But such criticisms wouldn't be merely contrary, they'd also be missing the point. Because, truth is, the Albright Hussey Manor Hotel is one of Shropshire's great culinary treasures.

Service is warm and engaging and the food is stylishly and skilfully prepared from the highest quality ingredients. Anachronistic some of its features may be, but the Albright Hussey epitomises most of what's right about Shropshire's culinary scene. It will continue to please its loyal customers for generations to come.

The Albright Hussey Manor is the tale of two men: head chef Michel Nijsten and its avuncular and gregarious maitre d', Malcolm - a man who needs no second name. Both have brought their huge and indelible personalities to the kitchen and restaurant in recent years.

There are times when they don't quite mesh; Malcolm's story about rushing around local supermarkets in search of orzo pasta having been dispatched on an errand by Michel lacked finesse, for instance. But both are big hitters whose respective talents are a cause for celebration.

Among Shropshire's diners, the Albright Hussey is as reliable as spring rain. It's the venue of choice for those celebrating a special occasion, it's popular among people whose families have lived in the county for many generations and businessmen and women also like its reasonably formal surrounds.

Most diners, of course, look for similar things when booking a celebration: they want good food that is fresh, seasonal and local; service that is professional, attentive and friendly and an environment that makes them feel special and if their dinners don't cost the earth, then so much the better.

The Albright Hussey ticks those boxes. Its high-profile chef, Michel, has carved out a reputation for local sourcing during his impressive tenure. He's heavily involved with Heart of England Fine Foods, cooking at banquets that celebrate the best of local produce. He promotes the county on a national stage, having recently given a talk and met Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, during Great British Food Fortnight celebration. His suppliers are featured in his menus, with full lists of local companies appearing for general perusal.

If Michel is the soul of the Albright Hussey, Malcolm is its great big, beating heart. His near-photographic memory means he rarely forgets a name or a face. "Ah yes," he said, greeting us upon our arrival. "We've not seen you for a little while, about two years I think. And your family, you've a teenage daughter, haven't you? How is she?" Remarkable.

Malcolm is a wise-cracking, bear of a man who ought to be a town crier or mayor. He puts people at ease, laughing away any insecurities or uncertainties.

And so to dinner. We were bought average quality olives while we perused the menu, though their bitterness failed to impress. A wonderfully savoury pate with smashed pistachios and an orange segment preceded our starters. The pate was good, though it need toasted brioche or just plain old toast to bring it alive.

To start, I enjoyed a roasted quail with black pudding and fried quail's egg. It was a good combination cooked with reasonable skill. My wife enjoyed her Jerusalem artichoke soup with cumin-spiced carrots. Both dishes could have been improved slightly; my dish by being less thoroughly cooked and the soup by being a little more viscous.

The main courses were again very good, rather than spectacular. My wife's seared fillet of line-caught sea bass was well cooked though the tomato ratatouille didn't have the zip or zing that it might have. The orzo pasta - "I eventually found it, at Appleyards," Malcolm told us - was worth the hunt.

My fillet of Shropshire beef was exceptionally well cooked while the oxtail confit was the star of the night. Tender, unctuous, well-seasoned and deliciously flavoursome, it was the standout element. The accompanying spinach and rosti were pleasing.

My wife enjoyed her warm chocolate tart with white chocolate ice cream while my honey and amaretto soufflé demonstrated Michel's accomplishment as a chef.

We enjoyed our dinner, without being overwhelmed by it. There were elements that could have been improved, but we left without complaint and having enjoyed the Michel and Malcolm show. Their skills have helped to earn the Albright Hussey fond regard among customers and critics alike.

It is thoroughly deserving of a recent AA award and, with Michel at the helm, will continue to impress the discerning palates of its diners.

But the venue will always be about more than just two men. People go to the Albright Hussey because it's forever special. Sitting in verdant Shropshire countryside, with exceptional views, a moat and pretty terrace and gardens, it retains charm and style from a bygone age.

And those are the qualities that endure and continue to appeal to its new customers.

ADDRESS

Albright Hussey Manor Hotel, Broadoak, Ellsemer Road, Shrewsbury, SY4 3AF

Telephone 01939 290523

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Grilled guilt belly pork with vanilla and cider and bramley apple puree (£6.25); Cornish fresh crab meat salad with potato bread and crab bisque (£7.95).

MAIN COURSES

Slow roast shoulder of lamb with grilled lamb cutlets and dauphinoise potatoes (£18.95); seared medallions of monkfish with pancetta rolled chicory and red wine syrup (£19.25)

DESSERTS

Whisky and orange marmalade bread and butter pudding with Baileys crème anglaise (£6.50)

ATMOSPHERE

Packed with old world charm.

SERVICE

Warm, friendly and utterly professional. Malcolm leads a team that is a healthy mix of youth and experience.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Staff help though the venue is Listed and therefore can be tricky to navigate.