The Duck at Allscott, Walcot

enjoys good food and learns what's in a name - when it's on a pub sign.

With pub names taking in anything from "The Queen's Head" to "The Blazing Donkey" (Ramsgate) and bizarrely "My Father's Moustache" (in Louth apparently), it makes you wonder at their origins.

But whatever they're called, you can guarantee that the names will be close to the locals hearts.

Quietly dining incognito at The Duck at Allscott, I remembered visiting years ago when it was known as the Allscott Inn and it occurred to me that the name change perhaps coincided with a change of hands. But speaking to the chef/owner Suzanne Young the following week, I was told this was not the case.

It had always been The Fox & Duck when she bought it 27 years ago, before renaming it. Yet the locals still called it by its old name, refusing the budge. So in 2008, to celebrate 25 years ownership, she changed it back to The Duck.

Suzanne told me that although country pubs were struggling in the current climate, her "unlimited" Sunday carvery was very popular - making Sundays the busiest day of the week. She caters for special diets and uses locally sourced ingredients. Suzanne explained that The Duck is believed to date back to the 1800s, when it was a farmhouse/inn.

Dining on a very cold Friday night I sat in my coat in the restaurant area for a while to warm up. The radiators were on but as it's a big place and there weren't many people in it was a bit on the chilly side, but not for long.

We had been given a lovely warm welcome by the young man behind the bar, whom I now know is Ed, Suzanne's son, who runs The Duck with her. He was friendly and enthusiastic and full of smiles, the perfect type of person to be working in the hospitality industry.

Simon and I enjoyed a pint of lager and a large glass of wine (£6.70) while looking at the menu. It was vast, with starters, grills, salads, specialities, vegetable dishes and pastas plus another menu of eleven extra main course dishes at just £5.95 each. The £5.95 selection included a 6oz Prime Cherrington Rump Steak with onion rings, mushrooms, chips and mixed salad. What good value. And then there was a specials board as well!

For our first course I ordered Homemade Pate with rustic breads and caramelised onions and apple (£4.50), while Simon ordered Smoked Mackerel Fishcake on a mixed leaves salad with a sweet chilli dressing (£4.25). Our mains were (Prime) Salmon Fillet simply grilled with olive oil and sea salt, served with a lemon and dill sauce with chips and vegetables (£8.95) and a Sirloin Steak with horseradish sauce, chips and vegetables off the specials board (£13.95).

My pate came in a small dish accompanied by two massive chunks of flowery home-made bread, some butter portions and a dish of onion and apple chutney. The pate was homemade and tasty and the bread light and very fresh. The pate wasn't too strong, or overpowering, but nice and comforting on the old tastebuds. The chutney was absolutely delicious and still warm, which was a first. Simon enjoyed his fishcake which came resting on fresh leaves. It was tasty, he said.

We had a little wait for our mains but then you have to expect that when they're cooked from scratch. I was pleased with my salmon. I had a good, dark pink, generous fillet which was hot, served with a lemon and dill sauce. The fish was fresh and the sauce tasty. My dish came with a bowl of decent-sized crisp, golden chips and al dente vegetables, being carrots, broccoli and cauliflower.

Simon had a nice, tasty sirloin with plenty of good sauce. The meat, (requested to be medium), came as ordered, pink in the middle.

There was a decent selection of puddings. I was by now full but Simon suggested we share a cheese and biscuits (£4.25). Ed reamed off a list of cheeses and suggested Simon choose what he wanted. Simon's tasty Stilton etc came with some walnuts and Brazil nuts (thoroughly enjoyed by myself), and a few grapes and of course biscuits. Simon then ordered a coffee (£1.50), which came with the welcome addition of a generous amount of chocolate mints, including proper After Eights, and not some mass catering alternative. What a nice way to finish a good meal at "The Duck".

ADDRESS

The Duck at Allscott, Walcot, Wellington, Telford TF6 5EQ

Tel: 01952 248484

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Grilled goat's cheese topped with walnuts on a mixed leaf and orange salad (£4.95); Soup of the Day (£3.95); Mushroom Filo - mushrooms in garlic, tarragon and cream sauce with a fresh mixed salad (£4.75)

MAIN COURSES

Lemon Ginger Chicken - chicken breast strips pan-fried with mange-tout, spring onions and ginger in a tangy lemon sauce (£8.75); Braised Lamb's Liver and Onion Casserole served with new potatoes and fresh vegetables (£5.95); Steak & Speckled Hen Pie - prime Shropshire beef slowly braised with onions, home grown herbs and Speckled Hen ale topped with flaky pastry (£8.75)

DESSERTS

Syrup Sponge (£4.25); Bread and Butter Pudding (£4.25); Apple & Rhubarb Pudding (£4.25)

ATMOSPHERE

Quiet but warm and welcoming

SERVICE

Excellent. Friendly and efficient.

DISABLED ACCESS

Accessible for wheelchairs