Oscar's, Telford cinema

tackles a Godfather burger and sees why Marlon Brando's cheeks were so stuffed.

And the award for best restaurant in Telford's Odeon cinema complex goes to . . . Oscar's. In the interests of fairness, though, I should point out that, actually, there isn't another one!

This movie-themed eaterie has been designed in the style of a 1950s American diner, and brought the former Deep Pan Pizza building back to life, after lying empty for several years.

With around 60 or 70 covers, it's exactly the right kind of place to hit the mark with the Odeon's predominantly young cinema audiences.

There's a jukebox in the corner playing an eclectic blend of old and new, and the menu is a mix of pizzas, burgers, steaks, fish dishes, and specials for the kids.

Chatting to the enthusiastic staff, it's clear they have ambitions to become more than just an oasis for waiting movie-goers.

They've no doubt been casting jealous glances towards the other side of the cinema foyer, where Costa Coffee has built a reputation as a popular town centre meeting point for friends, families and business folk.

For now, though, Oscar's is buzzing in the evenings, when the cinema is at its busiest, but tends to be pretty quiet during the day.

When we dropped by for lunch, we only saw two other diners.

Which is not an entirely bad thing, mind you. The atmosphere may have left something to be desired, but it did mean we had the undivided attention of our waitress, and got a realistic look at the type of food and service in a non-pressurised environment.

So, lights, camera, action . . . down to business. In the words of the late, great Marlon Brando, the menu "made me an offer I couldn't refuse".

The Godfather: strictly for the bravehearted, it said. That was enough for me.

Having shared a relatively restrained starter plate of fresh, simple, and satisfying potato skins loaded with cheese and bacon (£3.50) with my wife Rachel, I was confident I'd left enough room for this belly-buster.

The 10oz burger (£8.50), freshly made from 100 per cent minced British beef, is uniquely served with melted cheese inside it, oozing out over a lightly toasted bun with lettuce, eye-wateringly fresh onion, tomato, pickle and mayo.

All Oscar's burgers are served with skinny fries and creamy coleslaw. Mine was a bit mean on the coleslaw, although with the flavours oozing out of the burger, I didn't need it.

Tip: Don't tackle the Godfather if you're trying to impress the ladies on a first date - it's almost impossible to consume this monster in a dignified manner!

Luckily, I'm well past that stage, and my wife's long been accustomed to my dining table quirks.

So while I chomped through a juicy, filling, and memorable dish, Rachel was tucking into a grilled chicken sandwich (£7.50), charred to perfection and topped with monterey jack cheese. Like my meal, it was served in a plastic basket lined with greaseproof paper, rather than the more English approach of good old bone china.

Having initially thought it looked a little "plain", Rachel loved her meal.

While its menu isn't going to be up the street of many a more mature diner, this is certainly not a pile 'em high, sell 'em cheap sort of place restricting its appeal to teenagers.

All its fish is guaranteed 100 per cent fresh, delivered the same day it is caught, pizzas are made with freshly baked dough, and the menu proclaims: "We don't believe in frozen burgers at Oscar's".

After the Godfather, dessert was beyond me. As was the range of milkshakes, made using dairy ice cream, which I'm assured by several of the cinema staff are absolutely delicious.

For £2.49, you can choose from chocolate, vanilla, strawberry or banana flavour, while £3.49 is enough to select from the "specials" menu where blends include Twix, Creme Egg, M&Ms, Oreo, or Mint Aero.

Oscar's has big plans for the coming months, including a lite bite lunch menu, and fun dining challenges where an even bigger burger, dubbed the Titanic, will soon set sail.

A seven out of 10 experience, then, which certainly hasn't discouraged us from returning.

One final piece of advice, though: choose your table carefully . . . there are air conditioning units in the ceiling above the window tables, which blow - quite literally - hot and cold.

ADDRESS

Oscar's, Odeon Cinema, Forgegate, Telford TF3 4NE

Tel:01952 200577

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Garlic bread with cheese (£2.99); Chicken wings (3.50); Nacho Mountain (£4.99)

MAINS

10-inch Pizzas - various flavours (£5.99 to £7.99); New Yorker burger with cheese and bacon (£7.99); Surf and turf (£10.99); Salmon, red pepper and mozzarella fishcakes (£6.99); Kids' menu - main, dessert and drink - for £4.99

DESSERT

Chocolate profiterole dessert (£3.50); Deep filled apple pie (£3.50); Four flavours of sundaes (£3.50)

ATMOSPHERE

Quiet at lunchtimes, lively most evenings

SERVICE

Informal, but efficient