Hare & Hounds, Oakengates

says simple dishes need to be cooked just as carefully as the more complicated.

When Claire and I last reviewed the Hare and Hounds in Oakengates, we were both very different people.

Young Louis was still waiting to make his entrance at maternity, while Luca was a mere glint in my eye. And a far-off glint at that.

The occasion was our final meal together as a childless couple and we loved every minute of it. So how different would we feel, now that Louis and Luca are very much part of our lives?

I have to confess that our latest visit wasn't anywhere near the admittedly outstanding standards of that previous trip.

It was a bit basic, you might say, but enjoyable nonetheless.

We arrived on a Saturday lunchtime, but it could have been a Tuesday morning, such was a lack of fellow customers.

A few drifted in and out during our meal, but apart from the drinkers in the bar, we were alone. The pub was crying out for a full set of tables and a bustling atmosphere.

I can only hope we were there on an unusually quiet day.

The menu was a little bit basic - all the usual pub favourites, but nothing else, really. It seems the owners have decided to cater mainly for their regular customers and in some ways, I can applaud that.

The name of the game in many parts of the pub trade is 'back to basics' - there is no point in offering dishes that regular folk simply wouldn't order.

To begin our meal, I chose the pate, while Claire had chicken goujons. Soup was offered on the menu, but not available when she ordered. My starter arrived with plenty of toast and two large slices of pate.

The pate was smooth enough, but also had enough chunky pieces to keep me entertained. There was little to differentiate it from the kind of pate you find in pubs across the land, but this was a recurring theme.

It was straightforward food with very few frills.

Claire's chicken goujons were generous to say the least and invited very few complaints.They were offered with the usual choice of dipping sauces.

Young Louis, meanwhile, was quietly enjoying his battle to keep chicken nuggets on the plate, while Luca was generous enough to sleep throughout the meal.

For a few moments at least, it was bliss.

But soon enough, a chunk of Louis' nugget landed on my plate and it was back to another, noisier form of bliss.

For my main courses, I went for the lamb shank, while Claire's first choice, chicken breast, was unavailable.

She wasn't having much luck and eventually went for the gammon steak.

My lamb shank was a little deceptive. At first, I thought I was on to a winner and my first few mouthfuls revealed a deliciously mild, minted flavour.

But after that, I was at a bit of a loss. I know lamb shanks are supposed to be a little greasy, but this was different. The meat was plentiful and fell off the bone with ease, but it was just so oily that I couldn't really enjoy myself.

It came with lattice fries, which were placed underneath the shank and therefore turned into potato-flavoured grease sponges. Suffice to say, I left them alone.

Claire's gammon was more of a success. It was huge and long after I had finished my shank, she was still battling away at the mid-section. The gammon was juicy, had very little fat on it, and came with egg and an enormous slice of pineapple.

Claire's plate also featured the usual mountain of chips and vegetables.

No need to ask for extras, or desserts.

I was left a little bit disappointed by my main course, while Claire was clearly delighted.

Indeed, I had hoped to give the whole experience a hearty four stars, such is the special place in occupies in our lives.

Unfortunately, I can only award three stars at best.

There is, however, enormous potential for improvement and with a little bit of effort on the food side of things, that delightful interior could yet be bustling to the sound of happy diners.

In a few years time, perhaps that previous glory will have been regained.

ADDRESS

Hare & Hounds, Holyhead Road, Oakengates, Telford TF2 6DJ

Tel: (01952) 612946

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Creamy garlic mushrooms £3.50; Black pudding stacker: £2.95

MAINS

Cottage pie £6.95; Rump steak £8.95

DESSERTS

Chocolate fudge cake £2.95; Sticky toffee ice cream cake £2.95

SERVICE

Did not seem interested, but that could that could be put down to the lack of fellow customers. An older member of the team did, however, take time to talk later on.

ATMOSPHERE

Flat - an empty dining room will always feel like that, which is unfortunate.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Most of the pub is on one level