The Black Bear, Whitchurch

heads for north Shropshire and a memorable dining experience.

I had come to the cynical conclusion that to enjoy really great food in attractive and comfortable surroundings in Shropshire you would probably end up paying more for it, but then I hadn't eaten at The Black Bear.

The venue had come in as another reader recommendation - a highly successful one, thank you - please keep them coming.

A heavily beamed and much photographed black and white building, dating back to the late 1660s, I liked the place as soon as myself and other half Simon walked through its front door.

The simple decor, with traditional wooden tables and chairs standing on flagstone and tartan-style carpeted floors, blended well with the massive beams and original windows overlooking the High Street; these having candles flickering in large attractive lanterns.

It was quite busy, with plenty of diners already enjoying the good food and atmosphere. We ordered drinks at the bar and were shown to our table. We both felt very comfortable.

The menu was presented on a simple A4 sheet of paper and it had a good selection of tempting dishes. For starters I ordered traditional prawn cocktail with Marie rose sauce and brown bread (£4.95). Simon's choice was Shropshire blue cheese paté with green tomato and apple chutney (£4.95).

Our mains comprised griddled Dales-bred rib-eye steak with hand-cut chips and mushrooms sauteed in garlic (£15.95), the most expensive dish on the menu, for Simon; I liked the look of three-hour braised shin of beef cooked with onions, mushrooms and ale, served with buttery mash and greens (£9.95). Out of the nine main course choices, eight of them cost under £10 - this, I believe, being simply excellent value for money if every dish is as good as the one I had.

I was very pleased when my starter was put before me. This wasn't your 1970s-style prawn cocktail, being served in a goblet dish with a prawn hanging on for dear life from the side of the glass, it came in a long low bowl with two huge pieces of homemade bread and butter on one side and a very generous portion of prawns. I would definitely say a homemade, Marie Rose sauce. Everything went down well; the bread being very tasty and satisfying and the prawns and sauce simply lovely.

Simon's Shropshire blue cheese paté was very special. It was very light and Simon said you could definitely taste the cheese in it. Again he had slices of the same bread and his glistening homemade chutney was also very pleasing.

I was now confidently expecting high things from our mains. Simon's arrived first. He had a delicious steak, served with hand-cut chips which still had their skins on - very tasty and good for you - complemented by sauteed garlic butter mushrooms and a rocket and red onion salad, which he kindly shared with me. It was all excellent, he said.

My main course - under £10 remember - was simply gorgeous. I had a good amount of shin of beef which was very tasty. After three hours of cooking it was still firm enough to need properly cutting through, rather than just falling apart at the touch of a fork, as some braised meats can end up doing. It came in a truly delicious dark ale sauce, with onions and mushrooms and, again, they hadn't been stingy on the amount of it. The buttery mash was divine, I'd love to know which butter they used. My greens - curly kale I believe - were properly cooked and tasty.

As is the norm for me, I was now full and couldn't face another course. The puddings ranged in price from £3.95 to £4.95. Simon, who loves his cheese, plumped for the selection off the blackboard of artisan cheese with oatcakes and apple relish (£6.95). He ordered "a bit of everything" and got some Stilton, Shropshire blue, Cheddar, Brie and another "blue" that we didn't recognise. It was all delicious and the staff got full marks from Simon for happily getting him some extra oatcakes. He was also pleased to later get a second cup of coffee without being charged, as this is one of his bugbears.

So it was a clean sweep - nothing could be faulted at all, it could only be praised. We both later agreed that we had thoroughly enjoyed our visit to The Black Bear.

The pub was taken over last November by chef/owner Mark Sumner, who works alongside his second chef Mary Garnett.

The Black Bear has undergone a "minor" refurbishment since his arrival. Mark said things were going well, adding: "The people in town have really taken to us".

I'm not surprised.

ADDRESS

The Black Bear, High Street, Whitchurch SY13 1AZ

Tel: 01948 663800

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Creamed horseradish and garlic mushrooms on fried bread (£4.95); Warm salad of Bury black pudding and Bradbury's crispy smoked bacon (£4.45)

MAIN COURSES

Roast Tamworth free range pork loin with crackling, sage and onion mash, curly kale and Weston's cider gravy (£7.95); Cauliflower, Stilton and toasted almond pancake with a rocket and chard salad, served with fries (£8.95)

DESSERTS

Sticky ginger and black pepper pudding with toffee sauce (£4.95); Mrs Garnett's warm Bakewell tart (£4.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Busy and welcoming

SERVICE

Excellent. Professional, attentive and welcoming. Service with a smile

DISABLED FACILITIES

Limited due to Grade II listing though flat access through the rear car park