The Hundred House Inn, Norton
Rating: **** Awards are stacking up at this quaint hotel restaurant and it's no wonder when the food is so good, writes Andy Richardson.
Awards are stacking up at this quaint hotel restaurant and it's no wonder when the food is so good,
.
The wall in the bar of The Hundred House Hotel, at Norton, near Bridgnorth, is adorned with a collection of plates. They were awarded by the AA, denoting the award of two rosettes, in recognition of exceptional standards at the eaterie.
"It's a nice little collection," says Stuart Phillips, the venue's bearded head chef, as he wonders into his restaurant to greet customers. They are proof not only of high standards, but also consistency - 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2001, 2002, 2003 . . . ad infinitum.
The venue's trophy cabinet is as full as the one in Sir Alex Ferguson's office. It houses the Shropshire Magazine's Shropshire Inn of the Year Award for 2005, the Les Routiers Welsh Borders Dining Pub of the Year 2004, the Good Pub Guide's Top Dining Pub of the Year 2003 and many, many more.
Stuart has been crafting immaculate dishes at the popular eaterie for many, many years. Robust flavours, ingredients that are both seasonal and local and winning combinations are his raison d'etre. To the rear of the property there sits a vast herb garden that provides a year-round supply of flavour. More than 100 varieties are to be found in it.
Just as impressive is Stuart's list of suppliers. He works with the finest food and drink producers in Shropshire, Staffordshire and the Black Country, bringing fresh local flavours to his kitchen. If ever the region had a local food hero, it's Stuart Phillips.
Those local flavours reach their apotheosis in such dishes as this intrinsically local starter: Grilled chorizo with a Black Country black pudding and apple stack, topped with crispy onion rings and Mr Moydens 1664 smoked cheese sauce.
As the name suggests, the principal ingredient was sourced from one of the Black Country's many great butchers while the deliciously silky cheese came from Newport's award-winning cheese maker, Martyn Moyden.
When my friend, Jane, and I visited during a busy lunchtime service, I felt obliged to try it. The dish was sensational. The sweet and savoury contrast of apple with black pudding, the soft and crispy textures of the stack beside the onion rings and the rich, smokey cheese accompaniment were completed by a fresh, herby salad. The dish was faultless.
My friend enjoyed a rich chicken liver parfait made with cream and brandy and served with toasted brioche, chutneys and zingy slices of orange, which cut through the richness of the parfait.
We felt a little like alcoholics at a whiskey convention when it was time to select our main. The choice was impressive indeed. "Do you think I could have two small portions of different dishes?" I asked my friend. "No you can't, grunter."
And so I selected the venison steak served with suet pudding, a rich and indulgent dauphinoise, vegetables and a juniper game sauce. It was a triumph.
The suet was a treat and was filled with unctuous, slow-roasted cuts; the steak was melt-in-the-mouth tender while the sauce was triumphant. My friend opted for the roast monkfish with garlic sauté prawns and a saffron and basil cream sauce. She purred her approval.
When we'd arrived for our lunch, my friend had enviously spied the raspberry crème brulee with rosemary shortbread while I'd looked forward to a glazed lemon tart with raspberry coulis.
However, so generously portioned were our starters and mains that we had to settle for coffee and conversation before making our exit.
Throughout our lunch, the service had been polished and crisp. A warm and engaging grey-waistcoated waiter had been attentive throughout, making us feel decidedly welcome.
The Hundred House remains one of the region's finest venues, perfect for informal dining or a special occasion.
Stuart Phillips offers precision and artistry in his food; it really is the perfect package. One thing troubles me, however. As the years go on, where are they going to find room for all of the awards and accolades that they'll continue to receive?
ADDRESS
The Hundred House Inn, Telford to Bridgnorth Road (A442), Norton, near Bridgnorth TF11 9EE
Telephone: 01952 580265
* Aspirant cooks who want to learn how to prepare mouth-watering dishes can sign up for a Hundred House Masterchef School, which is run by ched Stuart Phillips.
"There's no shouting in our Masterchef kitchen, just plenty of fun while people learn how to cook to impress," says Stuart.
"We offer an action-packed day where people can learn lots of new skills, enjoy lunch and then take away what they have cooked."
The next Masterchef Day will run on May 8 and start with a tour of the herb garden.
The morning session will feature a menu of focaccia with roast garlic, red capsicum soup with lime mascarpone, mussel risotto with basil and tomato, Sumac seared mackerel with mango, mint salad and tomato salsa and a tapenade.
Following a lunch break, the afternoon session will feature rosemary braised shoulder of lamb with cous cous and harissa, crème Catalan with pistachio ice cream, caramel oranges and coffee granite.
Further details are available at www.hundredhouse.co.uk
