The Old Rectory Hotel, Wem
Rating ***: Tracey O'Sullivan went to Wem for her birthday and had a less than happy return.
went to Wem for her birthday and had a less than happy return.
A birthday dinner should be celebratory – it's a shame if it ends in a generous dose of pity for the venue.
And especially when it started so well. As my husband whizzed up the drive at the Old Rectory Hotel in Wem for my birthday dinner I sat in the passenger seat full of optimism.
Clever lighting worked its magic for that all-important introduction to this elegant-looking building.
Just like those well-placed trees in Westminster Abbey for "that wedding", the gentle rays of light emerging from the shrubbery looked simply beautiful.
And I felt great striding across the car park in tottering heels and party dress for the evening ahead.
But once through the threshold it was as if Cinderella's fairy godmother had fallen asleep on the job or the clock had struck midnight and the glossy veneer had disappeared with it. The hotel was deathly quiet and I mean tumbleweed rolling across the hall territory.
Not a single soul apart from ourselves and it took us a few minutes to find anyone to greet our arrival.
Let me point out, it was a Thursday night but since it was the Thursday before the Easter Bank Holiday weekend it was surprising and a little concerning to find such a venue so neglected on a night when many didn't have work the next day.
But that wasn't the only sign of neglect. The place could generally do with a makeover to give the interior the same wow factor that greeted us outside. Currently with its collection of bland soft furnishings it has the feel of a nursing home and of course the lack of patrons to create ambience didn't help.
Thank heavens then for the polite young lady who served us. On a night that desperately craved atmosphere she was willing, helpful, informed and friendly. Except for her enthusiasm in placing us near the fire, which turned out to be fake and merely a light bulb in plastic casing, in a manner that suggested we were honoured guests when in fact every table in the dining room was up for grabs, her service was impeccable.
We had sat in a lounge on our own with drinks while perusing the menu but sitting in an empty dining room was so much worse and possibly even more so because the lighting inside wasn't anywhere near as well-designed as that outdoors. It was bright and intruding, severely denting the notion that we could rescue the situation by treating it as some romantic tete-a-tete.
I'd love to say the food shattered the silence and screamed out "undiscovered gem" but unfortunately it fell short of making me feel compelled to declare "Shropshire you don't know what you are missing".
It was at best a hit and miss affair with a rare glimpse at what The Old Rectory could be offering up on a plate.
I started with a fruity and inspired champagne jelly which was different enough in taste to lift my spirits while my other half opted for the chicken liver pate.
He described it as satisfactory but with no pomp and ceremony. Then again you can't really go wrong with pate.
For the main course I had chicken breast served in a mushroom-based sauce. Now I can't say I didn't enjoy it – the succulent chicken held its own rather than being drowned in the sauce – but it lacked any distinctive flavours and I felt distinctly underwhelmed by it.
Nathan's sirloin steak looked generous as the plate arrived, taking up much of it, but hoisting it up by his fork he revealed its true dimensions while exclaiming it to be "the thinnest I have ever seen".
Served with home-made chips it should have been perfect simplicity but the chips lacked the necessary crunch to save them from being oversized puffs of potato.
The serving of vegetables was generous but looked lacklustre and without that hint of vibrant colour that makes such a side dish tempting to try. I'm afraid we didn't.
It's more than fair to say that the food was far from abysmal but it was starting to fall into line with the surroundings rather than fight against it. Bland and uneventful.
Again our waitress saved us from the doldrums by just being on the ball throughout the night and with plenty of advice as we chose our desserts.
I went for the tiramisu and for the first time felt a flash of genius and a suggestion that this place could live a life less ordinary. It was rich and creamy in all the right places with the right balance in ingredients for a dessert – tricky to get right.
Nathan had the creme brulee which he described as "lovely".
We were invited to take coffee back in the lounge and like every other course the service was smooth and made us feel at ease.
Nathan had a gin and tonic when we arrived and we each had a glass of wine at dinner so at just under £70 the bill was fairly reasonable. It was all just so near but yet so far.
Maybe it is because the greeting is so grand that you come to quickly expect more from the Rectory and as yet it fails to deliver.
I wanted to like it because I think we need more places in all corners of Shropshire worth scouring this county for. With a little extra attention and perhaps some investment The Old Rectory could be a fantastic addition to Wem and one which deserves to be busy every night of the week.
There is obviously someone here with an eye on the detail and a sense of style and occasion. The website is stunning for all the right reasons, classy with substance and full of character and what looks like plenty of ability to get it right in this industry. It's just a shame that at the moment what it is promoting doesn't deliver in the same way.
ADDRESS
The Old Rectory Hotel, Lowe Hill Road, Wem SY4 5UA
Tel: b01939 233233
MENU SAMPLE
STARTERS
Ham hock and leek terrine (£5.50); Pan seared scallops (£7.65)
MAIN COURSES
Herb-crusted pork medallions with olive oil mash (£11.75); Honey and five-spice marinated salmon (£11.50)
DESSERTS
Pink grapefruit posset (£5.25); Apple tart with sticky toffee apple sorbet (£5.25)
ATMOSPHERE
There was none
SERVICE
Excellent, and it nudged this review from a two to a three-star rating
DISABLED FACILITIES
Good
