The Wickets, Wellington

goes back to the crease for a delicious meal.

It's always pleasing to report good food at a newly reopened pub, and even better on returning four years later to find it even better.

Simon and I reviewed The Wickets shortly after it reopened in January 2007, enjoying a good meal . . . doesn't time fly.

We found a comfortable, modern, open-plan venue with separate restaurant offering a warm welcome and good food.

Its traditional menu was comprehensive and proving popular.

Visiting last Friday night, I had been sensible enough to book a table as an earlier attempt to eat there a few weeks before on a Saturday found it fully booked.

It was already quite busy when we walked in at around 8pm and, after ordering drinks at the bar, and mentioning we had booked a table, publican and restauranteur Julie Malia, who owns The Wickets with her husband Eddy, asked if we wanted to take our drinks straight to our table.

I had had my heart set on soup and a steak, but then it's a woman's prerogative to change her mind . . . isn't it?

Thankfully it was no problem to ask for a few more minutes to peruse the competitvely priced menu. As the home made soup was tomato that night, which didn't take my fancy, I fell back on that good old faithful farmhouse pate with hot toast (£4.25), while Simon ordered deep fried whitebait with brown bread and butter & tartare dip (£4.50).

For mains I finally settled on a whole grilled trout in lemon and almond butter (£12.50), while Simon went for a 16oz T-bone steak (£15.95). These came with either chips or new potatoes with a salad garnish and fresh vegetables. We both ordered chips.

Catching up over a glass of shiraz and a pint of lager while waiting for our starters to arrive, I noticed that the restaurant was preparing to welcome Easter with fresh daffodils placed on all the tables.

There was a large group of diners ending their meal as we settled down and tables made up ready for others.

Our starters were put down before us by a smiling, young waitress, who was very pleasant, and asked us if everything was all right with our food on more than one occasion.

Simon had some nice, hot, quite long whitebait, served with fresh slices of brown bread and butter, a fresh garnish and slices of lemon.

My starter had the same fresh garnish, two generous slices of thick toast, butter and a decent portion of pate with jelly round the edges. The garnish was like a salad on its own, with plenty of fresh cress, tomato and lettuce. My pate was nice. It was a smooth pate, rather than a coarse one, and it had a delicate flavour, rather than a strong one. It was enjoyable and I would say to most people's taste.

Simon enjoyed his whitebait.

Our plates were promptly cleared and we happily awaited our mains, content that the standard of our starters meant they were giving good vibes about what would come next.

Simon was presented with a very good-sized T-bone steak. I would never have been able to finish it, although I wouldn't have minded having a go. It came with grilled tomato, mushrooms and onion rings, the chips and again, the garnish. Simon was content.

As for me, I was absolutely delighted with my main course. My trout, unlike some I'd had over the years which looked like someone had dropped them on the floor and trodden on them before they were carried out to the restaurant, was full and fat - an Arnold Schwarzenegger of the trout world.

It was hot, very fresh, and piled high with gorgeous almonds, small slices of onions and thin, toasted slices of lemon peel. Over it had been poured plenty of butter sauce and it came accompanied by - now a favourite - salad garnish.

Soon generous bowls of hot golden chips and a bowl of hot vegetables, (broccoli, carrots and peas and sweetcorn) were put down on the table.

Again I found myself unable to make up my mind, this time about what to eat first. The fish was delicious and tender, with the flesh easily coming away from the bones. It was perfectly cooked with a tasty, though delicate, flavour. It was sublime, accompanied with the almond/onion/lemon peel topping, salad, vegetables and chips. What I really appreciated was that the fish was served with plenty of butter sauce, so that I could dip everything in it. My chips were hot and golden and the vegetables cooked, though still crunchy. Lovely.

Meanwhile Simon was happily tucking in to his meal with no complaints.

As I am a bit of a slow eater, and I was concentrating on the fish, salad and vegetables, my bowl of chips tended to just be picked at. This however, ensured I could squeeze in a pudding, if we decided to have one.

Our young waitress was soon reciting a list of tempting desserts. I again went for an old favourite - blackcurrant cheesecake (£3.95), while Simon went for one of his favourites, treacle tart (£3.95). Simon asked if his came with pouring cream and he was assured it did.

Again we didn't have too long to wait - in fact we realised we'd gone through three courses in just over an hour - so no one can complain about the speed of the service.

Simon's tart was hot and tasty. It was a good portion with the right cream. I had a generous slice of cheesecake, with squeezy cream and a red coulis with three white dessert sauce hearts cleverly incorporated in it. It had a good, strong biscuity base while the cheesecake was yummy and the blackcurrants not too sharp.

Thumbs up all round. Just remember to book!

ADDRESS

The Wickets, 240 Holyhead Road, Wellington, Telford TF1 2EB

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Black pudding & bacon with cheese (£5.50); Sauteed mushrooms in garlic butter on bruschetta with side salad (£4.25); Soup with roll & butter (£4.25)

MAIN COURSES

Vegetarian lasagne with Quorn mince & vegetables with garlic bread (£8.95); Braised lamb shank with red wine and rosemary sauce, mashed potato, parsnip crisps and leeks (£13.95); 10oz battered haddock with mushy peas and lemon wedge (£8.95)

DESSERTS

Baileys cheesecake (£3.95); Apple & sultana crumble (£3.95); Victoria sponge (£3.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Warm and welcoming

SERVICE

Professional, courteous, efficient

DISABLED FACILITIES

Disabled access through the front porch doors and disabled toilets