Lewis's, Bridgnorth

goes back to school to educate his palate at a new starter in Bridgnorth.

Investing in a brand spanking new restaurant during the aftermath of a recession indicates a high degree of confidence - but at Lewis's at Bridgnorth they appear to have the right recipe for success.

Open only a few months, this "new kid on the block" offers a lot, and offers something different. It is spacious, comfortable and classy and on top of that the food and service is of a high standard.

It is situated in an unusual building just off the High Street. People in the town remember it as the old Bluecoat School and it retains the large, tall windows so familiar to those who can recall sitting in strict, regimented rows in the classrooms in the 1940s and 50s.

The capacious, open-plan reception, lounge area and dining area is fitted out with extensive wood panelling, modern lighting and vast areas of stark white tiling.

Lewis's describes itself as a brasserie so the plain wooden chairs and bare tables were not unexpected. It is open all day and offers snacks, drinks and meals to suit just about everyone's needs. You can have cornflakes, morning coffees, sandwiches, a brunch, a lunch, afternoon teas, after-work drinks, snacks and full three-course meals. You can drop in for a beer or cocktail or a late night hot chocolate. I think that's just about everything.

But just because Lewis's is a jack-of-all-trades doesn't mean it hasn't mastered them all. Our visit proved the chef, Joanne Roberts, knows her trade as the food was first class.

From the off it was clear that Lewis's provides a huge choice, with 13 starters listed, nearly all priced at £5.

I'd chosen the Thai fish cakes with chili jam (£5) which came with a dressed rocket salad. They were not overly large, but expertly presented with dabs of thick balsamic vinegar. They were gorgeous, with not too much spiciness to blunt the fish flavour and the chili jam packed an adequate punch.

Libby, unusually, had passed on the starters (so as to indulge herself later with a dessert she had spotted on the menu) but still grabbed half a fish cake which went down well.

The main courses are available at midday and in the evening with about two dozen options, ranging from a full fry-up for £6.50 to steak frites at £15.

Scanning through the choices I settled on the piri piri chicken breast with fries, spicy rice and lemon mascarpone (£10.50). I realised I was in danger of overdosing on spiciness but there was plenty of wine to dampen things down a bit. It was a most appetising plate of well-crafted and attractively presented food, carefully cooked and certainly not lacking in flavour. The piri piri (bird's eye chili also known as African devil) gave everything a zing and warmed me from the inside.

In contrast Libby picked the mild, slow braised ham with leeks in white sauce and roasted baby potatoes (£9.50). It was, she declared, most enjoyable with a cleared plate bearing testament to the chef's skill.

The portions had been of a good size although Libby still had some spare capacity having declined a starter.

She had no need to deliberate over the dessert as she had no hesitation in choosing the soft-centred, hot dark chocolate pudding with crème fraiche. It arrived with two spoons and Libby reluctantly allowed me to taste a morsel. She declared the pudding irresistible and well worth foregoing a starter for. There were seven other options for dessert, which we decided must be sampled during subsequent visits, although I have a feeling Libby will return to the chocolate pudding. .

Lewis's is a bright, airy restaurant offering a huge range of snacks, meals and drinks and the staff extremely friendly and accommodating (if Edward is anything to go by).

It is owned by Matt Lamkin and his sister Pip, who live in Bridgnorth but are originally from Shifnal.

"We aim to be an inclusive restaurant welcoming young, old, and families," said Matt. "After a slow start we are now doing really well and are really busy."

We were not rushed, if anything the service was leisurely, and a couple of hours drifted by in the most amenable and civilised manner.

With two glasses of wine the total cost for the evening came to £37, and was well worth it.

The premises may once have echoed to the sound of excited children but now it buzzes gently with the murmuring of background music - the Old School is now, as far as dining is concerned, almost in a class of its own.

ADDRESS

Lewis's, 63A High Street, (Behind Tesco) Bridgnorth, WV16 4DX

Tel: 01746 767730