The Malthouse, Ironbridge

Rating *** The Ironbridge Gorge provides the perfect backdrop for a pleasant lunchtime visit to pretty pub,

There are few Shropshire sights finer than the Ironbridge Gorge. Man and nature have combined in harmony to create a site that has inspired countless generations.

The steep valley sides were carved during the last ice age when the waters were dammed by an ice sheet, causing catastrophic flooding and erosion.

Today it is truly idyllic, a place in which locals, fun seekers and day trippers can enjoy Shropshire's beautiful countryside at its most magnificent.

The Gorge is, of course, dominated by the Iron Bridge, built by Abraham Darby III, who assumed control of the project following the death of local industrialist Thomas Farnolls Pritchard, who had finalised the plans during the late 18th century.

Much has changed since those days. The bridge no longer provides links the formerly industrial towns of Madeley and Coalbrookdale, nor is it used for commercial traffic.

Instead, it dominates a vista that is improved by picture perfect homes that dot the river banks: a landmark that provides reassurance in an uncertain, ever-changing world.

Since receiving a UNESCO World Heritage listing in 1986, Ironbridge has thrived and numerous eateries have enjoyed a reliable trade. Food from around the world is available at an abundance of restaurants with something for all tastes, from pork pies to Bangladeshi curries or from ice creams or refined cuisine.

My friend and I opted for The Malthouse, on The Wharfage, when we called for an on-the-run lunch. Neither of us had the time that we might have liked to luxuriate in the surrounds.

We were looking for snappy, no-messing-around service and hearty, relatively inexpensive fayre. We made the right choice.

But first, come and join me on the good ship red. When we arrived, we briefly ventured inside The Malthouse and found ourselves asail on a crimson sea of bold colour. The interior designers who made it the venue of choice for locals and day trippers were not afraid to express themselves in the most visually-striking way imaginable.

On the terraced courtyard, we were able to relax in less garish surrounds and enjoy the views across the River Severn. We pulled up our chairs, waited for the menus and relaxed in the suitably convivial environment.

The Malthouse doesn't try to win awards for innovation with a menu that is four-square Brit pub grub at its best.

Burgers, pies, fish and chips, gammon, steaks, lasagnes, ribs, moules marinere, tagliatelle, Asian-spiced belly pork and loin of cod are among the staples. A grill offers all things red meat while sides including bowls of chips, garlic mushrooms, onion rings and salads mean customers can mix and match.

I opted for a Malthouse Cajun chicken burger, topped with smoked bacon, fresh mozzarella, jalapenos and sour cream, served with chips and salad.

There was plenty of flavour in the towering burger, though the chicken had been cooked a little too thoroughly and lacked the moisture I would have liked.

The chips, however, were a treat. Fluffy inside, golden and crisp on the outer with dinky little edges, they were faultless.

My friend opted for moules marinere and enjoyed her bowl of mussels in a creamy white wine sauce, with fresh crusty bread.

On another day, we'd no doubt have had more time to peruse the desserts menu, which changes with the season so as to feature such staples as triple chocolate brownies, white chocolate and strawberry cheesecake, chocolate cake, Malthouse Sundays, banana split, banoffee pie, crème brulee and a cheese board.

However, time was pressing on and we had to take our leave. Our food had been pleasant, rather than impressive. The service was good, with a polite waitress taking our orders quickly and returning frequently to our table to see whether she could fetch more drinks, coffees or side orders.

The Malthouse is the sort of venue that is worth keeping at the back of eager minds. It has carved out its own niche as a lively and fun venue with friendly staff and a great location. And, in a busy world where not all customers have time to linger long, that's praise worthy indeed.

Andy Richardson

ADDRESS

The Malthouse, The Wharfage, Ironbridge TF8 7NH

Telephone: 01952 433712