Brewers Fayre, Donnington

Paul Naylor enjoyed a trip to a family-orientated pub – his children, however, loved it.

You can try arguing with an eight-year-old if you like. Be my guest. But if, like my son Matthew, your little angels can be a little bit picky when it comes to dining out, might I suggest a visit to Brewers Fayre, Donnington? Matthew loved it.

My 11-year-old daughter Rachel had just taken part in a dance recital, and as a reward for her efforts it was down to her to choose somewhere for a teatime treat.

After short deliberation, we decided to give the new-look Telford venue the once over.

Previously a Brewsters establishment, and more recently run by the Table Table group, my family has frequented the site many times over the years.

Formerly known as the Clock Tower, the interior of the family-orientated pub has been given only a minor tweak here and there under its new guise.

For those unfamiliar with the venue, a bar area to the left of the entrance has comfy seating for those with a thirst, while the cavernous dining area seems to go on forever, with nooks and crannies a-plenty.

The different combinations of dining zones works well. Intimate tables for two are quite different to the almost private larger areas for significant groups.

There is a strong menu of firm favourites, children's specials and tempting puds, while the two meals for £10 during daytime hours represents excellent value for money.

Brewers Fayre has introduced its popular buffet theme nights, and this is where the new incarnation is likely to thrive.

We arrived late afternoon and were greeted at the door by a timid young lady who seemed ever so nervous. I wasn't wearing a trilby with a press card peaking from the brim, but I might as well have been. Poor thing.

Snaking our way through the restaurant area, we made our way to a table for four.

The young lady shakily informed us about the buffet and specials available. It was almost Olympic in its build up to a crescendo and I was willing her to the line. I'm only surprised we didn't stand and applaud when she finished. Bless her: 10 for effort, 6 for delivery. I guess she narrowly missed out on a bronze.

On my recent visit, the Sunday buffet – carvery of course – was proving popular.

Diners can enjoy a different style of cuisine seven days a week. Monday is Chinese night, while Tuesday may suit pie-lovers. Fans of Tex Mex should enjoy Wednesday's offerings, and curry on Thursday night is a sure fire hit. Naturally, Friday is reserved for a chip shop theme and Saturday sees the buffet transformed into a 'chicken shack'. This is a great idea, and I hope it works well for them.

Tempting as the carvery looked, we decided to make our choices from the extensive menus.

I placed the order at the bar and returned to my seat clutching four empty glasses. Another excellent feature of the pub is the bottomless soft drinks. Pay £2.25 for a glass and you can return to the self service drinks machine as often as you please.

Word of warning though – to avoid a youngster returning to the table with a glass full of ice and a teaspoon of lemonade, best go with them. I promised to mention no names, didn't I Rachel?

The food arrived, following a short detour. I watched as a bemused waitress offered our meals to another set of diners before quizzically making her way to our table. I can see how she got lost in the maze of eating stations.

"What are you having mum?," Rachel enquired.

Julie had scanned the main menu and settled on Goan vegetable curry, priced £7.49. The coconut-based curry contains sweet potato, cauliflower, lentils, spinach and green peppers and is served with basmati rice, poppadoms, mango chutney and a naan bread. Julie asked if the naan could be replaced with chips and staff were happy to oblige. The curry was tasty and marred only slightly by undercooked poppadoms.

I enjoyed my choice of smothered chicken – £8.59 – grilled chicken breast topped with bacon, cheese and barbecue sauce, complete with garlic bread, chips, coleslaw and salad garnish. Add a side order of onion rings for £1 and you won't go far wrong.

Matthew plumped for chicken nuggets, chips and beans, while his big sister opted for sausage mash and peas. Both featured on the children's menu and at £3.99 each were decent value. I love watching Matthew eat. It's like watching a puppy with knife and fork grasped in oversized paws. He really went for it. Both enjoyed their choices.

Our total bill came in at £34.06. Not bad at all. Matthew keeps asking when we are going back. I guess it will be very soon. Like I say – don't argue with an eight-year-old.

Three stars from an adult . . . four from a kid.

Contact: Brewers Fayre, Donnington Wood Way, Telford, TF2 8LE,

Tel: 01952 677568

Mini guide

Starters

Smooth chicken liver pate, served with slices of toasted baguette and a lightly dressed salad garnish £3.49

Breaded camembert bites, served with a cranberry sauce and lightly dressed salad garnish £3.99

Mains

Beef and ale pie, with chips, peas and gravy £6.99

Mediterranean vegetable lasagne, with chips, garlic bread and lightly dressed salad £6.99

Desserts

Caramel apple crumble, with custard, cream or ice cream £3.69

Chocolate indulgence sundae, served with cream and a flake £3.89

Buffet

Prices vary by day. See website www.brewersfayre.co.uk for details.

Atmosphere

Lively and unfussy

Service

Willing to do their best to bring home the gold

Disabled facilities

Yes