The White Bear, Whitchurch

Star rating: * * *

This review starts with a disagreement. My wife believes the White Bear at Whitchurch deserves four stars for its food, its service and its value for money.

I am only giving it three stars because I was disappointed with the chips. I stand by my decision, in the full and certain knowledge that I'll be making my own supper for quite some time - a case of... out of the frying pan and into the fire, as you might say.

To be fair, it was only the chips that didn't pass muster. We each had excellent starters and the mains were almost perfect. We had a glass of wine each with the meals, and coffees to follow. And still had 50p change out of £30.

If you don't know Whitchurch then the pub may be a little difficult to find. It's tucked out of the way off High Street but within easy walking distance of several car parks.

There's new management at the White Bear, so too a new restaurant layout and a new menu. The choice is varied and they are keenly priced, so we were not surprised to see other diners already in there when we called - despite it being a cold evening in mid-week.

Stepping into a warm room, settling down with a tempting menu in one hand and a glass of Merlot in the other is one of the great anticipatory pleasures in life.

Another pleasure was to see black pudding with a honey and whole-grain mustard glaze (£3.25) on the starters list. In my experience black pudding can be good, or very good. This one was even better.

It was piping hot, it was perfectly cooked. It was a comparatively huge circle of tasty, tangy delight. There were none of the chewy bits I used to find in the black puddings of my childhood. The honey and mustard glaze was light, not too sweet and balanced the black pudding richness perfectly.

Completing a superb double bill was Libby's creamy mushrooms on a garlic crouton (£3.50). Lots of lovely button mushrooms in an excellent creamy sauce, she said. The crouton was better than expected; the bread had not been fried like a crouton but was toasted like a crostini and was all the better for it.

I was equalled impressed with my wholetail breaded scampi (£6.75). There were a dozen of them and they were hot, juicy and with a tasty, crunchy coating. Mushy peas are a peculiarly British phenomenon which the rest of the world doesn't connect with. Fine. I like them.

It was only the chips that took the gilt off the gingerbread - much too crunchy for my way of thinking. I'd much prefer to pay a bit more and wait a bit longer for the traditional, freshly-made variety.

This evening Libby went old English and wanted some seasonal, nourishing food. There was plenty of choice, with the likes of battered cod and lamb's liver listed, but it was beef that won the day. The chalkboard offered a beef and red-wine casserole at £6.25. I really do think that few people could complain at these prices.

I know Mark and Tracey only took over the management at the White Bear in November so need to build up a clientele. Perhaps that is why they are offering keen prices indeed.

Libby said her meal would have been worth twice the price. The beef was tender and the red-wine gravy not too smothering. Tasty, smooth mash and acceptable cabbage and broccoli made for an excellent and satisfying meal.

Desserts were beyond both of us although the likes of bread-and-butter pudding and raspberry cheesecake were available at the bargain price of £2.95.

Food at the Bear has to be tried to be fully appreciated and you won't need a lot of money in your wallet. With the Chancellor's grab from the beer and wine drinkers in the budget this week you probably won't have much anyway.

By Rex M Key

MENU SAMPLE

Starters: Potato skins (cheese and bacon or cheese and onion) (£3.50); creamy mushrooms on a garlic crouton (£3.50).

Main courses: Half roast chicken with choice of potatoes and vegetables or salad (£6.25); cottage pie topped with mashed potato and vegetables (£5.95).

Desserts: Bread-and-butter pudding; raspberry cheesecake (both £2.95).

ATMOSPHERE: Friendly and relaxed.

SERVICE: Efficient and attentive.

DISABLED FACILITIES: There is wheelchair access to all areas including the toilets.

CONTACT: The White Bear at 10 High Street, Whitchurch SY13 1AZ. Telephone 01948 665040