The Cross Foxes, Erbistock

bravely follows a recommendation and is not disappointed in her choice.

It is not often that one dish will stand out for me when I eat out. perhaps its that I choose wrongly or take the safe option. But thanks to a recommendation from a member of staff, I will remember my superb main course at the Cross Foxes in Erbistock on the North Shropshire/Welsh border for some time to come.

Although we drive past regularly, it has been a long time since we have eaten at the picturesque pub on the Shropshire border. So a week off work having a 'Staycation' seemed an ideal chance to enjoy a night out with husband Mel, son Joe and girlfriend, Sioned.

As usual the front car park was packed at the pub, about six miles north of Ellesmere. Parking in the rear car park gave us the chance to enjoy a walk through the terraced gardens and outdoor seating areas that tumble down to the River Dee.

The pub was apparently built in 1748 by the Watkin Wynn estate for its workers, its title coming from the Crossed Foxes in the family coat of arms. It soon became a stopping-off point for stage coaches travelling from Shrewsbury to Chester with stables built at the front.

Now it is a stopping off point for locals and visitors alike, whether just calling in for a pint or glass of wine, a sandwich or a meal. And it has won a mention in the Good Pub guide for the past seven years.

We were offered a table in the popular conservatory with its view over the historic and beautifully lit bridge over the Dee. But we plumped instead for a quieter table in the older part of the pub bringing back memories of a couple of visits when Mel and I were much younger. In fact we smiled when we overheard two chaps enjoying a full Sunday roast reminiscing about the days when the Cross Foxes, like everywhere else in the 1970s, served a choice of either chicken and chips or scampi in a basket.

Today the menu is much different. The main course and light bites menu varies from the very traditional roast dinner or ham and eggs, to the more unusual, like the confit duck leg with roasted fennel, orange and lentil salad with a sesame dressing with of course plenty of choice for vegetarians.

Mel went for a full starter and loved his unusual choice of duck hash cakes, a delicious new take on the traditional fishcake. The large hash cakes arrived with a salad that included tasty boiled quail eggs and a tomato chutney.

The rest of us shared a couple of large portions of Joe's recommendation, garlic bread with cheese – soft baguettes dripping in garlic butter and smothered in cheddar cheese.

For the main course I was so tempted to have the light bite, crab linguine with ginger, red chilli and coriander, similar to a tasty dish that I have enjoyed at a sister Brunning and Price pub, Llangollen's Corn Mill. But the salmon dish had been recommended and I had been assured that I need not worry about my dislike of gloopy risotto.

He was right. Pan-fried salmon fillet with a pea and coriander risotto and langoustine sauce, for £12.25, was outstanding. The salmon had a tasty crust on the outside giving way to perfectly cooked fish on the inside. Nothing is worse than overcooked salmon but this piece was just right. It sat on top of the risotto that had none of the stickiness I dislike. It was clean and fresh, a refreshing change from new potatoes that often accompany salmon. And the langoustine sauce was lovely and rich, plenty of it and to my delight set off by mussels in their shells.

The others all went for different takes on steak. Mel had his favourite, a 10oz rump steak with watercress and horseradish butter, wild mushrooms, tomato and chips for £17.95. It must have grieved French chef, David, to do a well-done steak but Mel said it was perfect – well-done but not over-done.

Sioned feared she would never finish such a large piece of steak and was disappointed there wasn't a smaller size on offer. Instead she had rump steak sandwich with fried onions, chips and tomato chutney, for £9.25, and staff were happy to oblige her request for some mushrooms. Joe chose an 8oz steak burger topped with grilled bacon and cheddar served with coleslaw, relish and chips for £11.75.

All three enjoyed their meals but neither Joe nor Sioned could polish off their chunky chips. Sioned was far too full for dessert but after a short break the bread and butter pudding with apricot sauce and clotted cream at £5.50 proved irresistible. Both that and Joe's crème brûlée with a homemade biscuit for £4.95 (my son's tastes have certainly grown up with him) had a lovely caramelised crust on them. My only gripe was the apricot sauce was all apricot, lovely as it was, and could have done with a touch more sauce, but I'm being picky.

Mel enjoyed his traditional Eton mess and all too soon it was time to go. It was very tempting to stop and enjoy a drink: there was a large selection of whiskies and other spirits including Mount Gay rum, bringing back great memories for me. But with the teenagers falling asleep we left that for another time.

ADDRESS

The Cross Foxes, Erbistock, Wrexham LL13 0DR

Tel: 01978 780380

Web: www.brunningandprice.co.uk/crossfoxes

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Poached pear, walnut and sticky fig salad (v) £5.50; Deep fried Perl Wen - Welsh brie - in bara brith crumb with chutney (v) £5.95; Traditional Scottish smoked salmon with capers, lemon and brown bread £6.50

MAINS

Coq au vin with tarragon mash and green beans £10.25; 24 oz ribeye steak on the bone (for two people ) with roasted garlic and proper chips £36.50; Spiced chickpea and beetroot cakes with roasted vegetable cous cous salad and gazpachio sauce (v) £9.75

DESSERTS

Chocolate brownie with coconut ice cream £5.45; Sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream £5.50; Glazed lemon tart with raspberry sorbet £5.25

ATMOSPHERE

Very relaxed and friendly

SERVICE

Polite and eager to please

DISABLED FACILITIES

Make sure you park at the front of the pub, where disabled access is not a problem