The Swan, Forton

Rating *** Paul Naylor finds that little has changed at his old haunt.

Old friends. You can go months, even years without seeing them, and then five minutes after reacquaintance, it feels like you've never been apart.

A good friend of mine who now lives in Texas is a prime example. It can be two or three years between a proper catch up, but when it happens it is just like the old times – the true mark of good friendship.

In an odd way, a recent visit to one of my favourite traditional pubs gave a similar nostalgic reaction.

Over the last 20 years or more, The Swan at Forton, near Newport, has played a significant role in my life. It has been the stage for birthdays, anniversaries, plus the occasional New Year's eve party.

I must confess, it had been a little while since catching up with the old establishment, but a couple of months back I decided to pay the old girl a visit.

Dating back to the 18th Century, the former coaching inn has changed little in the last 20 years, though I don't believe the conservatory was there 200 years ago.

Stepping through the entrance porch into the cosy bar area, little had changed.

Stripped wooden floorboards, open fireplaces, panelled walls and an eclectic mix of sofas and chairs make for a charming setting.

An opulent chandelier dominates this part of the inn, with crystals twinkling above drinkers and diners.

It may have been through several changes of ownership in recent years, but one thing remains a constant at The Swan – the carvery.

Yes, I know many pubs in the area serve a good carvery, but for portion size, choice and consistent quality, I find The Swan hard to beat – no matter how long you leave between visits.

As I say, it had been a while, but I was not to be disappointed. A choice of turkey, pork and beef (or a generous slice of each) was beautifully complemented by a wide selection of fresh vegetables, including the best parsnips I have ever tasted. Anyway, I digress. That was back in July.

Earlier this month, I paid another visit – this time to sample the evening menu.

The restaurant is a curious blend of the old coaching inn and conservatory addition. The carvery is situated at one end of the room, while a wall of gilt-framed mirrors of various sizes makes an interesting focal point in the main dining area.

Seated in the restaurant overlooking the bar, my partner and I were presented with menus containing a limited selection of dishes, but with enough to keep most folk happy. And don't forget to ask about daily specials.

I chose smooth chicken liver pate served with onion marmalade and hot toast, priced £4.95. My partner opted for the mushrooms, sautéed with garlic and herbs, accompanied by toasted French bread, also £4.95.

In truth, the pate was fairly coarse, but no real problem there. It was plentiful in its ceramic pot, but a soggy napkin beneath it – presumably to prevent it sliding around on the plate – was a little off-putting.

The garlic mushrooms, although tasty, would have benefitted from being served in a warmer dish, my partner commented.

On to the main course. Mandy's 8oz sirloin steak, with hand cut double fried chips, tomato and mushrooms, priced £13.95, was perfectly cooked – pink and juicy.

My main of two haddock and spring onion fishcakes, with the same lovely chips, was partnered with tartare sauce and salad. At £8.95 this proved a good choice. The fishcakes were moist and flaky with a light, crispy coating.

A short while later we were asked if we would like to see the dessert menu. The tiny piece of paper – with a list of half-a-dozen or so puds – was laughably miniscule.

Not for the short-sighted, I tried to photograph it on my phone for reference, but it was so tinchy I cannot make out the contents. From what other diners had ordered, the puddings themselves did look delicious, but this way of presenting the menu did them no justice.

Feeling rather full we both considered a dessert but decided to finish with a filter coffee instead (£1.70 each).

Over all a tasty meal with a few minor glitches, but unlike many pubs this truly is home cooked food and reasonable value too.

However, to discover The Swan at its best, try the carvery instead and become firm friends for life.

* Please note that this review took place shortly before the arrival of new owners Tom and Carolyn Georges. Carolyn assures readers that the carvery will continue and a new menu for bar meals is currently being developed.

ADDRESS

The Swan at Forton, Eccleshall Road, Newport, Shropshire TF10 8BY

Tel: 01952 812169

Web: www.swanforton.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Scallops with pea and herb risotto, £6.95; Black pudding and crispy onion ring stack, £5.25

MAINS

10oz Rib-eye steak, £14.95; Garlic and herb gnocchi, £9.95; Pan fried salmon, mushroom and leeks, £11.95

DESSERTS

Warm Belgian waffle, £4.50; White chocolate & raspberry torte, £4.50

CARVERY

The carvery offers a range of roasts, and a particularly extensive selection of fresh vegetables and potato dishes. Mid-week carvery price is £6.25, with a two-course option at £8.95. Sunday carvery is £8.25, two courses for £11.25.

SERVICE

Warm, unobtrusive

ATMOSPHERE

Cosy and relaxed

DISABLED FACILITIES

Customers are catered for