The Hayward at The Lion Hotel, Shrewsbury

There is probably not a restaurant in Shropshire that does clean, unpretentious food as well as this,

Back in the day, The Lion Hotel was one of Shropshire's great institutions. Darwin embarked on his great voyage of discovery around the world after receiving a letter at the venue, on Wyle Cop. The county's great and good have been feted there down the years.

And then came the slump. In modern times, many people in the town wouldn't have included The Lion on their top 10 in Shrewsbury, let alone Shropshire. The town's hotel and its restaurant were unloved and developed an unenviable reputation for mediocrity.

Enter Howard Astbury. He bought The Lion Hotel in 2006 and reinvented it as the town's hotel and restaurant of choice.

He spent the early years of his independent ownership investing in The Lion's rooms and in recent times turned his attentions to its restaurant, renaming it The Hayward.

Mr Astbury received help from formidable restaurateur Claire Bosi, wife and co-patron of Ludlow's former twin Michelin-starred Hibiscus. Together, they created a sophisticated dining room in which guests enjoy the sort of fine dining experience on offer in Ludlow.

Having given his dining room a makeover, Mr Astbury unearthed a diamond in his kitchen. Ian Matfin is his head chef and he is an exceptional talent.

Best known for working under the twin Michelin-starred Michael Caines, Matfin also starred on BBC's Great British Menu. He has a wonderful style, creating attractive clean plates that are packed with flavour.

His cooking is unfussy and there is no pretence. He brings together high quality ingredients and lets them sing out.

Matfin deserves to be bracketed in the same band as the county's elite. He comfortably holds his own with the likes of Will Holland, at La Becasse; David Jaram, at Fishmore Hall; Chris Bradley, at Mr Underhills and Stephane Borie, at Checkers, in Montgomery. His is exceptional food and it's a surprise that he's not received more awards, or recognition from Michelin. Maybe, in time, he will.

Since its launch earlier this year, I've visited The Hayward four times and it's got better and better. Issues with inconsistent service appear to have been resolved, the dining room seems fuller each time and Matfin's food keeps on getting better. Mr Astbury, meanwhile, is ever present, like a proud parent at a prize-giving day.

He is ever-polite, always charming; the consummate professional.

But Matfin's food is the star ingredient. My friend and I visited for a midweek lunch and were thrilled. Matfin was up against it: I'm not the easiest to please and I was dining with a lady of impeccable taste. Hailing from a well-known Shropshire food-producing family and running a business whose clients include some of the region's finest food and drink makers, she was unafraid to express her views.

Our waiter brought us a selection of freshly-cooked breads as we perused our menus. My friend decided to start with a tuna carpaccio, which was elegantly presented and had a wonderfully clean, fresh taste.

It was dressed expertly, looking as pretty as a picture, and she delighted in its sweet and salty taste. I opted for a pigeon salad with blue cheese, pear, pinenuts and salad leaves. It was an expertly assembled collection of sublime ingredients and the flavours danced on my tongue.

My friend enjoyed a pan-fried salmon with a tomato reduction for her main, purring her approval as her fork cleaved away the tender pink flesh.

My pheasant breast was similarly good. It was served with roast root vegetables, slices of black pudding and the most savoury, intense jus I've tasted all year. It was a masterclass in deep, rich flavours. A bed of lentils and wilted cabbage leaves added colour and bite.

My friend skipped dessert, claiming only to ever eat a cheese sandwich at lunch – silly thing. So, while she enjoyed a coffee, I feasted on lemon posset with a citrus and thyme soup that was as melted ice. It was truly memorable. The petit fours that followed were more-ish and utterly decadent.

The Hayward is not quite the finished article: but it's as near as dammit.

Service has improved beyond all recognition since its launch and Howard Astbury is an excellent presence in the dining room.

About a year ago, I eulogised the Green Cafe, in Ludlow, and gave it full marks, opining that it was the best value eaterie in the county.

The Lion Hotel's lunch menu goes one better. It offers three courses of fine dining at less than £20 per head, which represents absurdly good value.

If it charged £10 more, it would still be pretty much at the top of my list.

In years gone by, The Lion had lost its roar. Now, it is the king of the culinary jungle.

It's the best Shropshire restaurant outside Ludlow – and a match for those in the south of the county. My friend and I could find no fault.

ADDRESS

The Hayward at The Lion Hotel, Wyle Cop, Shrewsbury SY1 1UY

Tel: 01743 353107

Web: www.thelionhotelshrewsbury.com

The Hayward at a glance:

Food: Exquisite. There is probably not a restaurant in Shropshire that does clean, unpretentious food as well as Ian Matfin. We're lucky to have him with us.

You really must try: His foie gras starter. His lobster fricassee. His pheasant with black pudding. Or, wait until summer and ask for the strawberries and ice cream with basil. All are divine.

Service: Matfin's food has been 5/5 for some time. Happily, Howard Astbury seems to be investing in training and improving his staff. They're not quite the finished article, but they've made big improvements.

Local/seasonal: The menu is a ring-a-ding-ding celebration of the best of Shropshire.

Lasting impressions: Best value in Shropshire, cleanest food in Shropshire, one of the region's top five chefs. What's not to like?