Upper Rectory, Berriew
Rating: *** It's been some years since I last enjoyed the food of Steve and Kerry Houlker. The proprietors of the Upper Rectory, at Berriew, writes Andy Richardson.
It's been some years since I last enjoyed the food of Steve and Kerry Houlker,
. The proprietors of the Upper Rectory, at Berriew, just over the Shropshire/Wales border, formerly ran a delightful restaurant further along the border, at Rorrington.
It was a charming place, with an unusual dining room that counted a suit of armour among its many idiosyncratic features.
The food at Rorrington Hall Restaurant was above par, reflecting the experience of working in French kitchens of husband-and-wife team, Steve and Kerry.
Upper Rectory opened in recent times, as Steve and Kerry decided to find new premises so that they could diversify into luxury bed and breakfast.
The couple have converted a room in their old dairy, installing a six foot superking-sized four-poster bed, while a romantic shepherd's hut that sits in the Upper Rectory's grounds has also proved popular. Guests enjoy romantic evenings around their log-burning stove before listening to the dawn chorus beneath a canvas awning while Steve and Kerry deliver a basket of croissants and homemade jams.
The restaurant is a homely delight. It is decidedly bijou, there were place settings for just 14 people when we visited on a Saturday evening.
Steve and Kerry have used the space well, incorporating neutral colours, innovative wall hangings and an open fire into the former sitting room. There is also a lounge in an adjacent room. It contains a log-burning stove, comfortable leather sofas and armchairs – and one of the world's friendliest cats.
When my friend and I visited, Bear, a tortoiseshell moggie, took a shine to me and hopped up on to my lap.
The restaurant menu is an exemplar of keeping things simple. It comprises three or four choices for main, starter and dessert and places a focus on local/seasonal produce. Our evening began in the lounge, where we enjoyed pre-dinner drinks – and the attentions of Bear – as our waitress brought a platter of cheese straws.
My friend choose from the vegetarian menu, opting for a starter of toasted goat's cheese with a walnut salad and main of a ratatouille-like aubergine and cheese bake.
I selected a starter of 12 escargot – a dish that paid homage to Steve and Kerry's French connections – followed by a main of pork shoulder with stuffing, vegetables and dauphinoise potatoes. The goat's cheese was simple but pleasant, while the crunch of toasted bread and nuts provided a textural compliment to the soft goat's cheese and salad leaves.
My escargot starter was less impressive. The snails were delightfully cooked and served with plenty of butter, garlic and parsley, though an accompanying pizza-base-like piece of garlic bread was stodgy.
It hadn't been cooked particularly well and in places had a dough-like quality. It was also huge, filling the entire plate, and though I tried to eat my way through it I eventually had to give up the ghost. Our mains were also served in XXXL-sized portions. My friend's aubergine and cheese dish would have served two diners.
It was reasonably good, though the over-abundant cheese layer tended to drown out the flavours of the vegetables.
My pork shoulder dish, meanwhile, was also gargantuan in size. There were other minor flaws. The shoulder had been overcooked and was a little dry, while the stuffing had also been cooked for a fraction too long. The plate came with two dishes of vegetables for us to share, including a creamy dauhpinoise. There was simply too much food for us to manage.
The desserts were the finest courses of the evening. My friend opted for a light, feathery treacle sponge with treacle while I enjoyed a vanilla posset with fruit compote and shortbread biscuit. They were both utterly delightful.
We then retired to the lounge, to renew acquaintance with Bear and enjoy tea and petite fours. The petite fours were vast and lacking in subtlety. Jam tarts, squishy fudge, chocolate brownies and more besides made it more like an afternoon tea, than a dainty end to dinner.
The service throughout our evening was faultless. A youthful waitress had an impressive command of the dining room and was attentive from start to finish. She made polite enquiries as to whether we were enjoying our dinner and made our evening a delight.
As we came to pay the bill – which, almost unbelievably, was less than £50 – I realised I'd lost my wallet. The waitress was thoughtfulness itself as she helped me locate it: I'd actually dropped it outside the front door.
The food had been generous – a bit like eating a posh Sunday lunch at the home of an affluent relative – and the service had been first class. The Upper Rectory is perfect for the Welsh border, serving low-cost, high-value portions that are big enough to feed the hungriest local farmer.
ADDRESS
Upper Rectory: Berriew, Welshpool, Powys SY21 8AN
Tel: 01686 640930
At a glance:
Food: A cross between classic French and traditional British. Nothing too fancy.
You really must try: The Bombay Scotch eggs seemed to be the most popular choice of those on a neighbouring table.
Service: Excellent. Our waitress was calm, assured and in control.
Local/seasonal: Very good. The Bombay Scotch eggs, for instance, are made using eggs laid by the Upper Rectory Bantams.
