Wynnstay Hotel, Oswestry
Rating: **** It wasn't a good start but as the song goes, things can only get better and, at the Wynnstay Hotel in Oswestry that is exactly what happened, writes Sue Austin.
It wasn't a good start but as the song goes, things can only get better and, at the Wynnstay Hotel in Oswestry that is exactly what happened,
.
When our friends arrived before us for a meal at the Georgian hotel in the centre of town they had to admit they feared the worst.
With a masked ball about to begin in the main function room the lounge bar was heaving and they were ushered straight into the Sapori restaurant.
Then, as we arrived, they were sending back a gin and tonic.
"I was given slimline tonic – which I didn't ask for," Henry apologetically explained.
The replacement drink soon arrived and we were sat down to enjoy an excellent platter of home made bread while deciding what to eat.
I was drawn by the menu degustation – six courses that, with the exception of the foie gras parfait sounded wonderful. But the restaurant suggests each diner at the table choose it and so I instead went for three of the courses from the a la carte menu.
We were still given the amuse bouche, a delightful salmon mousse and it became very obvious that, despite the ball, the Wynnstay had plenty of staff to ensure that the restaurant would be unaffected.
The Wynnstay is one of Oswestry's oldest hotels but its restaurant has always managed to keep up to date with the latest food fashions while keeping traditionalists happy. The Wynnstay also has a pavilion lounge bar menu for more informal eating.
Now, with the arrival of chef Alan Dan, the hotel is rapidly gaining a reputation for top quality Michelin style food.
Alan began his career almost 25 years ago with four years at The Waterside at Bray, one of England's finest restaurants.
He then travelled to France spending four years there, again at some of the county's top restaurants before returning to Britain to become chef at Lower Slaughter Manor in the Cotswolds, winning it a Michelin star within two years.
His flair was easy to see as our starters arrived on slate platters.
I had assumed that crab and cucumber cannelloni would be pasta, although cannelloni actually means cylinders. It was in fact three larges tubes of finely pared cucumber filled with delicious fresh crab. The cold starter was a welcome change with heat coming from the chilli in the coriander, lime and chilli flavours.
Husband Mel's choice of home cured, oak smoked and fresh salmon was though the star starter. As well as 'roses' of salmon the platter included an unusual take on the traditional 'Scotch Egg' – a still warm, quail's egg wrapped in a delicate layer of salmon with a delicious saffron rouille, a traditional fish accompaniment.
For our main course we both chose Honey Roast Breast and Confit Leg of Barbary Duck. The meat was delicious, the breast a perfect pink the confit leg I am sure had fallen off the bone. The wild mushrooms were tiny and as usual I was too nervous to ask for more of the port sauce – blame TV chef James Martin for showing me just how much sauce is reduced in his show last weekend. But the sweet potato millfeuille was an unusual and tasty accompaniment.
Our friends were equally pleased with their meals.
I tried very hard to resist a dessert but the words, hot, chocolate and fondant were simply irresistible. Again I had imagined some kind of chocolate pot and got it wrong. Instead I was presented with one of those amazing chocolate puddings with the melting middle.
I've made them several times at home and never quite got them just right.
This was perfection itself, one of those desserts that has the senses reeling and lives in the memory for some time. My only gripe – I couldn't taste the Calvados in the mascarpone, perhaps it was simply overwhelmed by that melting chocolate.
Mel's strawberry cheesecake was another picture on a plate and, he said, as tasty as it looked.
Henry chose an excellent Pinor Noir to accompany our meals and, after we retired to the lounge for coffee, we also enjoyed a spirit to finish the evening.
Once again our friends confessed they had been worried when they walked into the Wynnstay fearing something old fashioned and tired. But they both stressed their fears had been completely unfounded and that the restaurant and its food had been an absolute delight.
Yet again Oswestry had proved that it is rightfully being tipped as the next big foodie town in Shropshire.
ADDRESS
Wynnstay Hotel, Church Street, Oswestry SY11 2SZ
Tel: 01691 668900
MENU SAMPLE
STARTERS
Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Parfait with Spiced Apricot Chutney and Toasted Brioche £7.50
Hot Bocconcini Mozzarella with Provençale Salsa and Basil Oil £6.95
MAINS
Pan Fried Fillet of Sea Bass with Chorizo Sausage, Piquante' Peppers and Basil Mash £16.50
Chicken Supreme with Smoked Pancetta Sauce and Spring Onion and Chive Puree £14.95
Grilled Filet of Shropshire Beef with Fondant Potatoes, Celeriac and "Garniture Grand Mere" £26.50
DESSERT
Assiette Gourmand £8.95
Classic Vanilla Crème Brûlée with Limoncello Shortbread Biscuits £5.50
A selection of Local Cheese and Shropshire Biscuits £8.95
Freshly Brewed Coffee and Homemade Chocolates £2.95
